Violating knots

[wstanley]

Working on a 50” reflexed ash bow (4.5” reflex at this point) which will be backed with 4 layers of sinew.

The bow has two knots on the backside where most of the bending will occur. I have already violated these knots (see pics). I did put TB3 glue in thee cracks to seal them.

Have I gone too far, or am I ok as long as I only remove from the belly going forward?

Thanks
Wes

[wstanley]

Knots

[Pat B]

Wes, I think you have gone too far. Rings on the back, especially in the working portion of the limbs need to be as perfect as you can make them. As far as the sinew backing, it would probably hold but is that good enough for the rest of the work you will have to do to add 3 layers of sinew.

[PatM]

 Use better wood.  The bow will likely crack under the sinew even if it doesn't break outright.  Then it will also chrysal and fold.

[SLIMBOB]

I agree with Pat.  Hard to tell for sure from the pic, but it looks iffy to me.  The holes thru the bow are of little consequence, but it looks like you have violated several layers around the ring.  That will be a problem if so in my opinion.   

[wstanley]

Thanks. Yea I sure went through a few rings flattening out those knots. Not sure what I was thinking!
 
I was afraid of this, but glad I’m hearing : )

Pat B, so your saying it might hold but it’s not worth the time of adding 3 layers of sinew. Just making sure I understand. I usually back my bows with at least 3 -4 layers, is that overdoing it?

[SLIMBOB]

I wont speak for Pat, but sinew is a lot of work.  A rawhide patch or back may be a better route.

[Pat B]

Sinew and hide glue weighs more than wood so there is a point of diminishing returns but if your bow is short enough and has has pulled into reflex 3 to 4 layers is Ok. What you want is to stretch the sinew while drawing the bow so the sinew is worked to the max without adding too much extra weight(physical).
 I usually use 3 layers, the first is the longest strands I have and I try to get even coverage, the 2nd is to fill in the voids after the first dries and the 3rd is to further fill the voids. After washing with warm water and Dawn detergent and rinsing with boiling water I size the back well with 2 or 3 layers of hot glue then dip the hydrated sinew strands in the hide glue, squeegee off the excess glue and lay it down. This insures you don't have too much glue.

[wstanley]

Thanks Slimbob. Weighing my options out. I never used rawhide. Would the patch go on first and then sinew?

[SLIMBOB]

My point was, maybe no sinew.  Just rawhide.  Less work on an already suspect back.  If you use both go sinew and then rawhide.

[Pat B]

If those knots are as bad as they look I wouldn't bother with either. Maybe that's just me.

[wstanley]

Copy that Pat

Thanks for the advice all. I’m distracted by the AFC champ game and will need to simmer on the feedback for a bit. Seems like I may have gone too far.

[Pat B]

Save that piece of wood. Maybe later after you've learned more you can use it.

[PatM]

You may want to direct folks to the pics of this bow so far.  It's the C shaped one, no?

 All the knowledge in the world won't make that design work with this stave.

[George Tsoukalas]

I think it is irreparably damaged too. You know you don't have to ring chase on ash.
Jawge