increasing arrow weight

[WhistlingBadger]

I' received the book, "A Man Made of Elk" for Christmas.  I highly recommend the book--a bit of good how-to, but mostly a lot of excellently articulated campfire philosophy about the meaningfulness of the hunt.  And enough grouchy-old-man comments about ATVs and other high-tech hunting for a good laugh now and then.

Anyway, one thing he consistently harps on is heavier arrows for heavier game, and I think he's on to something.  My arrows come in around 500 gr, which is a bit lighter than I'd like.  570 to 600 would be better for elk and hopefully someday moose and black bear.  I could increase the head weight from my current 145, but that would only get me partway there.  So, I'm thinking heavier shafts.

I'm shooting sitka spruce these days, but I'm thinking of using a heavier wood for my next batch.  What woods do you recommend that are heavier, stay straight, readily available, and are otherwise relatively easy to work with?  What suppliers give you the best batch for your buck?

T

[Pat B]

Mike Yancy at Pine Hollow(a sponsor) has hickory shafts. They are quite heavy, maybe closer to 700 grs. You could soak your shafts in tung oil(I think) to increase their physical weight but I'm not sure that would affect the spine.

[artcher1]

 Except for cane, bamboo and hardwood shoot shafts, I think you're already shooting some the best shafts out there. Weight is certainly an issue for some of us with it comes to sitka spruce for hunting. You could ask your supplier if he has heavier shafts in your preferred spine range.  Look for other advantages than weight alone. Like heavier heads that provide better weight forward, good designed single beveled broadheads, and doing a little shaft tapering as well. Add a super slick finish and you can up your game with it comes to penetration with lighter shafts...……..Art

[Strelets]

Ash is one of the best choices for a heavier weight arrow. It needs heat to straighten it, but once straightened it will stay that way. 3/8" ash will average about 20 grains per inch. It is very tough and durable. With spruce, pine or cedar I used to beak about one arrow per week, with ash it is about one per year.

I buy 3/8" dowels direct from the manufacturer in batches of 50, requesting "arrow grade", then weigh them and measure the spine.  The stiffest shafts can be left longer to soften the dynamic spine, or used with the heaviest weights of head. This way I end up with several sets of arrows, which might differ in weight and length between sets but within each set they are a reasonable match. Alternatively, the stiffer shafts can be sanded slightly to weaken them.

If you want a really heavy arrow use maple. 3/8" maple averages about 24 grains per inch.

[artcher1]

I would recommend the fir shafts as well.

I also have a short draw length of 24" and used hunting bows in the 45# range. So I had to incorporate every advantage into my hunting arrows that I could think of.  I'm a big believer in using tapered shafts for hunting. That's one of the reasons that I preferred naturally tapered shafts such as cane, bamboo and hardwood shoots. If I needed to up their weight I used heavier spined shafts, added heavy broadheads and used hardwood foots. Same can be done with doweled shafts.

I'm glad to hear that someone is bringing back the old Forgewood/battleshaft. I used Steve Tanner's battleshaft years ago and really liked them. Made of mt hemlock, and with their internal taper, heavy weight, you can build some awesome hunting arrows. I will certainly spread the good news!    Art

[EdwardS]

If you want some truly heavy shafts, Forrester has leopardwood.  Made some 1200+ grain arrows with them on my 36" draw bows.  Cinder blocks took severe damage when I shot through my target and backstop.  Your mileage may vary, and I can't pull those bows any more.  But yes, increasing weight will get you more penetration and better stopping power.

[TimBo]

I like hickory.  It has heavier weight and toughness in a smaller diameter shaft.