Author Topic: Wild rose arrow spine  (Read 2372 times)

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Black Moshannon

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Wild rose arrow spine
« on: December 12, 2019, 08:15:17 am »
I’ve been shooting wild rose (I believe it’s multiflora) exclusively for years, because it’s easy to find here in Central Pa and I’ve been able to make really nice arrows from it. My bows are from 50-60# and are straight end, bend through the handle longbows. A few years ago I made a spine tester. All my rose arrows are sized through an 11/32 sizer and cut to 29.5 inches long (my draw length is 27 inches). I would then sand down the shafts until they flexed to the recommended spine for a 60 pound non-center shot bow.. I made them flex to about 50-55 pounds for a centershot bow on the AMO chart, which was 15/32-17/32 inch of flex. I would then attach the heads, which weighed from about 150 grains max for a broadhead to 125 on the low end for a blunt. ( I don’t shoot field tips because the rose has an inner pith which doesn’t allow for tapering). I was not taking into account that the heavier head was making the shaft flex more. The arrows weigh in at between 600-700 grains. For some reason, despite the inner pith, rose tends to be dense and heavy. I figured the shafts would be overspined for my 50 pound bows but work fine for the sixty pound bows.  I didn’t want to bother making a second set of shafts for the lower weight bows. I have noticed the arrows would sometimes clatter loudly off the side of the lower weight bows, which I heard was a sign of being overspined, but I was able to shoot well and didn’t care as the lower weights were to play around with and I was only concerned about my shooting with my sixty pound bows. The arrows fly quietly and smoothly out of the sixty pound bows and I’ve been able to shoot well and take small game with them  out of a 55# bow ( no luck with a deer yet, haven’t been able to draw the bow without frightening them). Anyway, a few weeks ago I became annoyed with the concept of having to sand down each shaft till it flexed properly, as well as the issue with the inner pith, as sanding the stiffer shafts down left more pith and less wood, which seemed somewhat unsafe with the self nocks. Instead, on my last group of shafts, I left them all 11/32 and then checked the flex. Some flexed right down to 16/32 and some were a lot stiffer. I put the heavy broadheads on the stiff shafts and the lighter blunts on the flexible shafts. They all seemed to fly great out of the sixty pound bow. The issue is now that I have been doing a little research on YouTube, the internet etc and am wondering if I should do a better job of tuning my arrows. I am considering leaving the shafts about 32” long and attaching the head, then “bare shaft tuning” by shooting them into a hay bale and seeing if they end up nock left or right, then cutting them down from the nock end if they are too light spined, until they fly properly. At this point I suspect most of my arrows would be on the stiff side and I should be making them a little longer with the same weight point. However, I’ve never “bare shaft tuned” and don’t know what to expect. I don’t know if this is all worth the effort to begin with. How picky should I be? Thanks for any help anyone can offer.

Black Moshannon

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Re: Wild rose arrow spine
« Reply #1 on: December 12, 2019, 08:56:54 am »
I would add that I took all of the lower spined (17/32) shafts mounted with heavy broadheads and fitted then with lighter blunts or bone points.

Offline TimBo

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Re: Wild rose arrow spine
« Reply #2 on: December 12, 2019, 10:48:31 am »
I will be watching this thread, since I also like wild rose a lot but haven't done much tuning with that material.  Some rose is extra heavy - probably third year rather than second year growth? - and I have reduced their diameter with good luck.  The pith is smaller on those, so it seems like they can stand to lose some wood without compromising safety.   I have had reasonable luck tapering for field points - sometimes I glue a bit of bamboo or wood in first. 

Black Moshannon

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Re: Wild rose arrow spine
« Reply #3 on: December 12, 2019, 12:19:05 pm »
I used to taper them and put on field points but I wasn’t able to be consistent with it and I disliked buying instead of making so I decided to just go with my antler blunts. I find they work better for shooting afield anyways since they don’t tend to skip under the grass, and I’ve never had a problem getting them balanced.

Offline Mesophilic

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Re: Wild rose arrow spine
« Reply #4 on: December 12, 2019, 08:05:31 pm »
I just finished my first small batch of wild rose shoots.  Very interested to see how thjs discussion goes.
Trying is the first step to failure
-Homer Simpson-

Offline TSA

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Re: Wild rose arrow spine
« Reply #5 on: December 18, 2019, 10:42:02 am »
heres my input, and please bear in mind, its not from a rose shaft perspective, but tuning in general.

even though bare shafting is something i strongl;y recommend, as the results are very accurate IF, and its a big IF, if all factors are consistant. now that can be remedied to a very large extent by taking multiple shots and working with averages.
 Without the fletching, the shafts are hyper sensitive to any variables. form being the biggest one, ( that includes release), and different densities within the target medium, if point and nock arent perfectly co planar, differing nock grips on the string etc etc.

i do know that good fletching will mask a lot of these issues that become apparent without fletching.

so even though it works, and is technically probably the most accurate system, we have started to recommend a different approach to tuning.
i really like group tuning.
fletch up a "field " point or in your case maybe a blunt of sorts that will work, and a broadhead.
shoot them into your target, aiming them for the same point, do this repeatedly until you have some kind of a grouping starting to present itself.
 broadheads will impact with a different POI than fieldpoints when the spine is off.
then adjust shafts accordingly

Black Moshannon

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Re: Wild rose arrow spine
« Reply #6 on: December 18, 2019, 01:26:24 pm »
Thanks for the info. I have read a few other posts on this topic and with what has been said here, I won't be attempting bare shaft tuning. I'll be going with the recommended guidelines and will be shooting my shafts in groups in accordance with the advice posted here. I will shoot my stiffer spined arrows that I recently started building and see how they impact compared to the old arrows. If its something I can't live with then I will go back to carefully reducing each shaft to the desired stiffness.