Bamboo questions

[Dances with squirrels]

Lots of useful info here.

I'll add... normally, I have plenty of bamboo here to choose from, so I can afford to choose a clean piece without deep scratches or dings, and then don't bother to remove the rind until part way through the tillering. But if I only had the two pieces pictured above, I would at least remove the rind around the scratches and nicks to more closely inspect them in those specific areas. If the damage reached into the power fibers at all in areas that would end up being in the bow, I'd hold off and order some new pieces from someone who is familiar with the needs of bowyers.

I would still leave the rind intact everywhere else because it helps protect the bow's back from glue and such.

[Limbit]

Use a razor blade and thick gloves. Not sandpaper. Razor blades remove the rind super fast and clean. It is the best tool in my opinion to work bamboo and you don't need to worry about the bamboo dust then. You also don't need to fret much about taking off too much. The stuff will hold together regardless if it is good boo, but the power fibres (the strongest most dense fibres) are right on the underlayer of the rind and don't go very deep. You can see them if you look at a cross section of it.

[Selfbowman]

Thanks guys I will be trying a boo backed soon. Can you just leave the rind on and have no affect. Will the rind take true oil?
Arvin

[PatM]

It really doesn't like to let stuff stick to it without being at least micro abraded to knock the shine off.   A scotch- brite scrub and acetone or similar wipe will  "etch" it enough for an adequate grab to the surface.

[DC]

I've never removed the rind up til now. I've never used true oil but I've used tung oil and it went on OK after I scrubbed the bows back with lacquer thinner. If this boo wasn't so marked I wouldn't remove the rind. I'd just use lacquer thinner and leave the back absolutely natural. I'm a bit anal about natural backs though

[Selfbowman]

Thanks Pat. Arvin