Drying checks

[uncleduck]

Recently got a piece of osage off of ebay that was supposedly cut back in 2017. Now that I got the profile drawn on and roughed out I'm starting to see more and more drying checks on the bow's back. Pretty much the whole length of the bow has hairline cracks (not one continuous crack the whole length). How much is too much? This stave is still not completely roughed out and has not been bent at all yet. I'm planning on filling everything w CA glue,  anything else I can do to increase chances of it making it to a bow?

[uncleduck]

The bow is also going to need some heat to bring the string into alignment and straighten a deflexed limb tip

[Pat B]

Did you seal the back after you exposed a new back? Whether the stave is seasoned or not the change in humidity where you are and where it came from can cause wood to check when a new ring is exposed. Generally speaking checks aren't a death knell unless one or more run off the limb and even that can be remedied. Post a pic of the back and the worst checks for us to see.
 I built a bow a few years ago with checks completely through both limbs and plenty more along the limbs. Josh Barnes gave me the stave and I gave the bow back to him. If he's listening maybe he'll post pics or you could look it up here on PA.

[uncleduck]

Pat, thanks for the reply.

The stave was already down to a single ring on the back and was sealed with a clearcoat prior to me receiving.  I have only taken a bit off of the sides and belly to get it less bulky (still about 1.25" thick). I will post some pics when I get a chance. Most of the cracks are hairline and following the grain, there are just a lot more than I've dealt with before. The worst areas may have 3 parallel cracks.

[bradsmith2010]

its a good idea to seal after getting to one ring,,

[artcher1]

You'll be fine. I suggest you get that clearcoat sanded off and apply a good coat of super glue. Maybe even a couple of coats. Do it outside where you have good ventilation. Once your bow is finished you can apply Tru-oil or polyurethane over the super glue. I used painter's tape to seal a stave's back. Oh, I once ordered some Osage online and the gentleman said it was cut the previous year. Got the stave, varnish was still wet, and the first swipe with the drawknife I got an eyeful of sap. Beware......Art

[bradsmith2010]

If green,,.seal handle and fades on belly side

[SLIMBOB]

When Osage has already shown it will check on you, and you heat it up with a heat gun, it will pop open even worse. None have proven to be particularly fatal in my experience, but I hate to see it happen.

[bownarra]

Chase a new ring if you are 1 1/4 thick. Unless you are going for mega draw weight your working limb won't be much  more than 1/2" thick.
Wood will only check when it is still too wet.
If it were me I would first chase a new ring until there are no checks. Then reduce the belly and keep a decent sized shaving from near the middle of the stave.
Weigh that shaving accurately.
Put it in the oven/microwave to dry out to 0% m.c. and then work out the m.c. of that shaving.
This method will let you know the true m.c. not just what the surface is.
If the m.c. is over 10% then you need to reseal the back and let the bow get down to 8%. It may check if the m.c. is too high but it won't if the stave is dry right through.

[bjrogg]

I've had several with some pretty deep drying checks. Never had a problem with any of them. Hunted hard two seasons with one. Probably the best bow I ever made.

If you want to avoid them you have to seal back immediately after chasing a ring. And then seal it again. Even on old seasoned Osage.
Bjrogg

[George Tsoukalas]

They are only bad when they run off the sides. I shot one for 3 years that had drying checks  and it install going strong. The checks were already there but I did glue and clamp them with super glue.

Whenever the back is exposed seal it.

Jawge