When do I put on the snake skins???

[Staver]

I have a 56" osage D-bow in progress and I steamed and turned the tips a little.  There was a significant amount of deflex in the top limb near the end and it seems that a longitudinal crack developed but has'nt stopped the tillering process.  The longitudinal crack is in the outer third of the top limb and stops about 2 inches shy of the tip end.  I put some super glue gel in the crack and continued on.  I want to try to get it to 60# @ 28" and I'm currently at 60# @ 22".  I'm gonna put some buffalo horn inlays on the tips soon and want to put on some snake skins to help give the bow a little medicine for that top limb.

Here's my question:  Should I proceed with the tillering process until I get to my draw length at 28" or should I put the snake skins on first then continue tillering till I reach my goal?

I was gonna just make a simple D bow, but then I decided to add some extras along the way

Thanks for any help I can get!!


Joe H

[Staver]

By the way... the crack is in the back of the bow and doesn't go through the belly (not yet anyway)   Joe H

[Pat B]

Joe, Wait until you have finished the bow and have shot it in. It would be a shame to add the skins only to have the bow fail. With cosmetics, I always wait until completely done. The checks(cracks) must have developed after you steamed the tips. By steaming you added moisture to an already dry stave and when it released that moisture the back checked. You should be fine with them filled with super glue although I prefer the thin stuff for applications like this. Once you add the skins, you will never know it was cracked.   Pat

[Staver]

Pat B,  Thanks a lot   I was actually thinking the same thing.  I would hate to ruin the skins if the bow fails, but I also thought that the skins might add a little medicine to the back and protect it along the way.  I guess if the bow fails... I'll just make another one and save the skins for the bow that deserves em!

Joe H

[Slivershooter]

I always put the my snake skins on when the bow is about ¾ of the way tillered (45#@22-24 inches), then let them dry for at least a week.  Both times I waited until the bow was tillered to apply the skins, the tiller changed and I ended up with a lighter weight then was wanted after correcting the tiller.  Usually, I can tell if a bow will become a shooter by the time it has reached this stage of the tillering process, luckily I haven’t wasted any skins, yet(nock on wood).

[ricktrojanowski]

I agree with Pat B.  Get it shooting first.  I only did skins once, but didn't notice any change in tiller after they were applied.