Author Topic: footing  (Read 4526 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

WillMac

  • Guest
footing
« on: April 17, 2008, 12:05:18 pm »
Hello again,

First off, thank you to everyone that replied to my pervious posts! I finally got one of my shafts relatively straight without over heating or breaking the nodes. =)

I tried to foot the cane with a scrap piece of 5/16th port offered cedar, but when I did a quick test shot at half draw it snapped at the base.  :( I think it was just a design, instead of tapering it into the cane shaped it like the nock, cut it to about half of 5/16th and shaved it down.

Will the cedar be strong enough? Should I foot it will something like Osage?


Thanks again!

Will

Offline Hillbilly

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,248
  • I like tater tots.
Re: footing
« Reply #1 on: April 17, 2008, 01:55:39 pm »
Unless you just really want a foreshaft for some reason, cane arrows work just fine or even better without them - I hardly ever put foreshafts on mine, more trouble than they're worth IMO. If I do put on a foreshaft, I like to use a tough hardwood and taper the end that goes into the cane, then wrap the cane at the juncture. 99% of the time, though, I don't use 'em.
Smoky Mountains, NC

NeolithicHillbilly@gmail.com

Progress might have been all right once but it's gone on for far too long.

Offline adb

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,339
Re: footing
« Reply #2 on: April 17, 2008, 02:11:12 pm »
I wouldn't use Port Orford cedar foreshafts on cane or bamboo. It's stronger than the cedar. All you're doing is creating a weak point, and the shaft will break there.

Offline david w.

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,823
Re: footing
« Reply #3 on: April 17, 2008, 09:19:45 pm »
hillbilly can i hunt with a unforshafted cane arrow?
These pretzels are making me thirsty.

if it dont go fast...chrome it - El Destructo

Offline Hillbilly

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,248
  • I like tater tots.
Re: footing
« Reply #4 on: April 17, 2008, 11:58:42 pm »
Sure-I don't put foreshafts on any of my cane hunting arrows. Cane is actually a lot stronger than wood.The Cherokee and several other tribes lived for a couple thousand years off stuff they killed with unforeshafted cane arrows.  :)
Smoky Mountains, NC

NeolithicHillbilly@gmail.com

Progress might have been all right once but it's gone on for far too long.

WillMac

  • Guest
Re: footing
« Reply #5 on: April 18, 2008, 10:16:16 am »
 
What are some alternative points for field tips? Or how can i put the field tips on the cane? Its to thick to put then on like you would a cedar salft for somthing like that.

Offline Pat B

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 37,633
Re: footing
« Reply #6 on: April 18, 2008, 10:40:30 am »
I usually just taper them as with any other shaft. Sometimes I will add a piece of dowel or bamboo skewer in the hole with glue before tapering. 
  For a more primitive point, cut the point end about 3" or 4" beyond a node, fill the hole with sand and add melted pitch to seal it.         Pat
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Hillbilly

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,248
  • I like tater tots.
Re: footing
« Reply #7 on: April 18, 2008, 11:14:38 am »
Like Pat said, plug it. Then, you can reduce the diameter of the last inch or so a bit so that you can get a taper tool on it. Selection of cane for smaller diameter/thicker walls helps, too-most of my cane shafts will take a 23/64" field point, some a 11/32".
Smoky Mountains, NC

NeolithicHillbilly@gmail.com

Progress might have been all right once but it's gone on for far too long.