How far can I take fresh osage log

[bowkill]

I just cut my first osage log, and was wondering how far I can take it while drying.  I coated both ends with clear-coat paint, and then removed all the bark.  Can I split it now?  chase a ring now?  shape it now?  I want to hunt with this bow next fall. 

[DCM]

Coat any areas you took the bark off of immediately.  Then split it, immediately.  At least into quarters or down to bow sized staves.

You can reduce as much of that to bow shaped pieces, including backing down to a ring, again sealing after each work sesson.  If so, and you leave the handle "proud"  seal it belly side and fades as well.

I like to get a green wet bow down to about 3/4" thick, at the edge not the crown, and 2" or smaller in width.  Then I put it on a caul to keep it from warp and twist and induce a little reflex.  After a week iof being bow shaped it will generally not move around any more.  Ideal conditions you can be ready for tillering in as little as 3 weeks off the stump.

What's the diameter across the butt (biggest) end?

[bowkill]

It's about 6-7 inches across.

[DCM]

That's tricky to get 4 staves from, particularly if it has much taper.  The problem usually is preserving enough depth in the handle.  I have somtimes cheated, parting the log in the middle and cutting two sets of billets out of the big end and then one set off the top.  Did that with a mlberry tree as they are scarce for me.  Unless you are experienced with splicing billets it's probably not a good plan, but I'm a cheap bastid and try to get as many bows as I can from the logs.

Post pictures.

[bowkill]

I can't post photos they are too large.  My camera is set on 1.9 its lowest setting

[George Tsoukalas]

After about a week or two or 3 or so of sitting there I think you can work on it. When you find the heartwood ring you want bring the stave to that ring. Remove the gouges with a scraper or pen knife. Sand with 100 and 220 grit. Moisten the back with a damp maper towel. let dry and sand. Continue until no more wood grain is raised. Let dry for a few minutes. Seal the back with your choice of sealer. Leave the handle full width and the nocks full width- about an inch. Taper the width and begin to floor tiller. You can get the limbs  bending a little bit. Easy does it don't put too much pressure on the limbs. The wood will dry faster that way.  Put is aside and let it dry. Depends on where you are as to how long. I check my stave  with a moisture meter as i work on it. When I get above 8% I stop and let it dry. Jawge

[DCM]

The software with the my wife's Canon camera has a utility, I think it's under the email menu, where you can decrease the density, or size.  Bummer.  Pictures are cool.