Undoing a glued up hickory backing question

[StickMark]

I am almost finished separating the hickory backing from the belly board, also hickory.  I heated up a thin knife, really thin, on a stove, not red hot, but hot.   The backing got warm, kinda hot, not like heat treating a belly, but warm.

Did using the hot knife, about 150 degrees as it separated the Titebond 3, do any real change to the backing? Or is the estimated 150 degrees like having it in a car in the summer, so no harm done.
I am going to use Smooth On epoxy after I let the pieces re-hydrate a few days.
Will flip the backing, using the unglued side for the Smooth On glue.
Mark

 

[Del the cat]

150 (C or F !) Neither will do any damage to the Hickory IMO
Del

[Pat B]

TBIII will release at 150deg(F). I've done it a few times. I used a heat gun to heat the backing and started at one tip and used a flat screw driver to lift the backing then worked down the limb to the handle and from the other tip to the handle. There was no noticeable harm done to the backing.
 If you Smooth On I doubt you can do the same if there is a problem.

[StickMark]

PatB,  your post in the archives is why I knew the knife had to be only 150 degrees (F).   I am keeping a note book on the info I find in the archives.  Amazing knowledge in there.
My TB3 glue line was excellent until the fades.  This bow is for a hunting partner, and I want it excellent. Smooth On might be better for the intended mission of the bow.

[Pat B]

I didn't heat the screwdriver but the backing itself and with no ill effects. I didn't heat it to color but made sure it was hot enough without discoloration.
 The fade area is a difficult to get good adhesion. Even clamping with the right pressure is the ticket.