Need Help with fades

[bjrogg]

I don't know if you can see it but if you notice the different woods they all get narrower as they move towards belly side of handle. Also entire handle narrows  sweeping back from the fades. Make sure you leave enough stiff area to not let fade bend but as long as your a little thicker you should be able to narrow it without it bending. If you look just below the tiny knot in the juniper you might notice it's slightly narrower and a small depression that the crock of my thumb fits in.
Bjrogg

[bjrogg]

Here is another picture of the same handle during the shaping process
Bjrogg

[timmyd]

you can also not make your handles as deep, this will allow a more gradual taper and not appear to be as abrupt

[Eric Krewson]

I put guidelines on my limbs to keep them even side to side and start the lines at the end of the fades. If I stay above my guidelines I can't mess up a fade transition.


 

[bjrogg]

Exactly Eric. That's why I'm wondering if Russell is actually talking about where fade meets limb or handle part of fade. I wouldn't remove anymore wood at the point limb and fades meet. Not without being very careful not to develop a hinge there. It looks close enough to that line you would draw and stay above to me already.

If you just don't like the angles of the fades, I'd change them on the handle side of the fades not the limb side.
Bjrogg

[Deerhunter21]

Oh sorry i was talking about the angle of the fade and if it was too agressive.  i started taking off of the handle part to make the angle better and i was also worried if the limb was too thin. i think i got both of my answers so i will finish the floor tiller and then heat treat. sorry that i didnt get back sooner i had a lecture to listent to. i always like to keep this tab open though! 

[George Tsoukalas]

Looks like I am in good company, PD. Jawge

[Eric Krewson]

I consider this an ideal fade angle, especially with a glued on handle.