How to make a tillering stick?

[Finn_the_archer]

Hello fellow archers, I'm new to bowmaking and need a tillering stick. Are there any instructions out there on how to make one myself?

Thanks

[Pat B]

Finn, Better than a tiller stick is a tiller tree. Mine is a 2x4 mounted to a wall with a 2x4block at the top to rest the bow handle on and a pulley at the bottom. A 10' piece of rope runs through the pulley and attaches to the bow string with an "s" hook. This is with the bow's handle resting on the smaller 2x4block.  Now you can stand back a few feet, pull the rope and watch your bow bend. From this distance, you can really see any problems when they arrise.
   A tiller stick can be very dangerous to work with. I have heard of them being launched and sticking in the ceiling.  With the tiller tree you can pull your bow and look without stressing the limbs, also.    Pat

[tom sawyer]

I use a stick until I get the bow bending to the point where I can brace it.  I've been told that there is no damage to the bow, in bending it to the braced position.  After all, you leave the bow braced for hours right?

Use a 1x2 of some hardwood, about 30" long.  Notch it every inch starting about 6" from the end.  Notches should be at least 0.5" in, up to an inch.  And angled enough so the string won't slip out (30 degrees).  You'll need quite a few notches, maybe a dozen.  Not that you are going to be bending the bow that far, but a long string stretches sometimes and you might need the extra notches to get the bow bending the 6" or so that will get you to a braceable state.  Also, put a big notch in the end so the handle will stay in position, basically a smaller square cut in the end.

Hope this helps, if you need a pic I can see about posting one tonight but you probably get the idea.

[tom sawyer]

The big advantage I have with a tiller stick over a tiller tree for early judging, is in being able to run a straightedge (credit card or similar object) along the belly of the bow while its on the tiller stick.  I can judge stiff spots this way, much better than I can see those every small differences on the tree at this point in the game.  I think a tree is still good for the later stages of tillering, when you have a significant amount of bend going and really want to stand back and look at that bend.  But when a bow is pulling only 3-6", it is much easier to do what I'm suggesting.

When I put a bow on the tiller stick, I put the bow on a piece of carpet (belly up) and string it, holding the upper end of the stick with my stomach.  I use a tilllering string just barely long enough to get on the bow.

[Finn_the_archer]

Thanks for your replies!

So basically, it's a good idea to first pull the bow to bracing position on a tillering stick, and then as next step pull it to full draw on a tilering tree?

[tom sawyer]

That is what I've been taught.  Others have a different opinion.  I've never had a problem with set showing up while using the tiller stick during those first 6 or so inches of getting tips to move.  The set tends to show up when I go to the short string.

If I see a bad place, I generally let it down and fix it right away.  In fact I generally look down the sides of the limbs and get the thickness about even down the length as a first step, before I even bother with the stick.

As far as not pulling past intended draw weight, I don't worry about that at the tillering stick stage.  You can't tell what the poundage is with a long string anyway, so I just pull it far enough to measure any imperfections, and when things get pretty smooth I pull the string pretty tight, and farther and farther up the stick, until I get it to whee the tips are at a place that is equivalent to a brace height.  I also measure the distance of each tip from the floor, so I know the two limbs are relatively balanced.  You don't want one tip bending 6" and the other only 5".

That is how I'm doing it these days.  I don't even go to a tillering tree after I get it strung.  I jut pull it and look at the bends that way.  But a tillering tree is good for the later stages and I recommend one.

[GregB]

For the tillering stick, cut a saddle on the top end wide and deep enough for your bow to set belly down. Slotted grooves should be angled away from this saddle. Typically I first floor tiller the bow which involves placing one tip of the bow on the ground while holding your handle with your right hand, and the top limb tip with your left hand. Have the bow running alongside your leg, and then rotate your hips to flex each limb. You should be able to locate stiff area's with this technique. Next we use the tillering stick to get the bow to brace height using the straight edge on the belly to locate flat area's as already described.  Be careful not to remove to much material using the tillering stick. I have gone to the tillering tree to find I had taken off to much material and the bow didn't make weight. Just as soon as you can get a string braced to the bow and the limbs are close to even, I'd suggest going to the tillering tree with a bow scale in ling.

Using a tillering tree, we place a bow scale inline (it hooks to the bow string), then tie your rope to the scale and down through the pulley and finally to the handle. This way you can not only watch your limbs flex, but can also keep track of your bow weight. Never ever draw the bow past what you want your finished weight to be!

Hope this is helpful!
Friend of "Pappy's"

[tom sawyer]

Greg, I have been coming in at around 50-55lb on my bows automatically with the way I'm employing the tiller stick.  I think it might have to do with how much pull you have to give the bow to get it hooked onto the stick.  Gets kinda scary to pull really hard.  So I can see where it would be easy to come in under wweight, especially if you are shooting for 60+lb.

I've never really gotten the hang of floor tillering to any great extent.  I use it to know when the bow is starting to at least bend, but I've never been able to do much actual tiller-judging with the method.  And I can as easily tell when the limbs are close, by the way they bend under the weight of my rasping.

So you're a friend of pappy's?  We won't hold that against you. hehe

[George Tsoukalas]

The last  and only tillering stick  broke while the bow was at full draw. The bow conked  me  on the head. I actually saw stars. My set up is pictured on my site. See Bow Making Directions.  My judging of tiller is done far way from the action.  I'd  write more on the advantages of a rope and pulley but ....Jawge

[tom sawyer]

'Bout time you came around to rebutting me on the tiller stick!  I've been setting out bait and waiting, and waiting.

I've never said it was the SAFEST way to tiller.  Or that I was the SHARPEST knife in the drawer.  But until I can get a string on my bow, I can't really use a tree and keep the bow bent while I measure the bend.  And my eyes play tricks on me when I try to do things visually at that point in the game.

[Pappy]

I never use a tillering stick to full draw,I use to but always got a lot more set.I just use it till I get
the bow to brace,then go to the rope and pully system.I don't use a long string thow.I use a tillering string that I can ajust and brace it a about 4 in. and go from there.Everyone has ther own way but this works for me.
   Pappy

[tom sawyer]

Pappy as you know I'm just giving the "Gary Davis Method" a little publicity.  He told me last time I saw him, that it was some kind of "internet thing" that was giving tillering sticks a bad name.

My long string, is just a real thick linen string with a loop and an end for a timber hitch.  No fancy leather cups or anything.  Though sometimes I wish I could bend a bow before cutting nocks, I hate that chore.

[George Tsoukalas]

LOL, Tom Sawyer, I'm so predictable. If used properly the tillering stick has its place......:)Jawge

[George Tsoukalas]

....and it's place is  in the fire place I'll  probably be berated for my stand by certain prominent members of this site but I don't care. Won't be the first time.  Jawge

[Pappy]

You know how oppions are Jawge,I say take what you here and read and try all the methods and see what works best for yourself.
   Pappy