Bendy Handle sinewed Osage - Build along - help me out

[Sidmand]

got my ring chased, and now I want to start working on an osage bendy handled sinew backed bow, and I would really love some help.  The stave isn't super challenging for yall, but I'm scratching my head a little bit.

My GOAL is: 

• mid 50LB draw at 27"
• bendy handle with a floppy rest or something glued on (not cut-in)
• preferably 60" or less tip to tip due to thickish woods in my hunting area and ground blinds
• flipped tips
• sinew backed

I will post a lot of pictures here to get feedback on what direction the fine folks here think I should go.

Here is my stave.  67 inches end to end, with some wiggle, a little twist, and some natural reflex and deflex.  A few pin knots, a weird kind-of knot/brown spot, and only about an inch wide in a couple spots, but lots of thickness to work with.  The first 3 attached here are of the full stave with the centerline marked.  My knife is sticking up right at the natural center of the stave.

[Sidmand]

MORE PICTURES:
3 pics of inclusions in the stave

[Sidmand]

MORE PICS:
few more inclusions, plus thin area in relationship to the center.

[Sidmand]

LAST 3 pics for now, just some better looks at the pin knots

[Deerhunter21]

 

[Pat B]

I would choose the "best" 60" in the stave for the bow thinking about width, knots, twists, reflex and deflex. The more even the those 60" are the better. You can make corrections with heat later on if necessary when you get to first low brace to see how the string tracks under tension.
 At this point you could start at about 3/4" thick at the handle area and tiller the limbs down from there. This will give you a stiff handle area to start with but you can bring the bend back into the handle at the far end of the tillering process. I like to feel the handle start to give as I hit full draw. I like the tips to be about 3/4" wide with single side nocks on these simple bendy bows and you can set the side nocks up to counter act somewhat any twist in the stave when the bow is drawn...plus they are authentic and cool looking. 

[Sidmand]

I would choose the "best" 60" in the stave for the bow thinking about width, knots, twists, reflex and deflex. The more even the those 60" are the better. You can make corrections with heat later on if necessary when you get to first low brace to see how the string tracks under tension. ....

Pat, what 60" would you pick if it were your stave?  If you would pick any area, given the measurements, what section of that stave would you pick - what inch to what inch on the white ruler - or what inch would be your centerline?

[Pat B]

Without holding the stave in my hand and getting a good look at it I can't say. See how the twist and bends go and where the reflex and/or deflex is and try to determine the area with the lease amount of artificial manipulation needed. You should look at all 4 sides before determining.
 

[Pat B]

...and, unless you specifically wanted to sinew back the bow you have plenty of wood to achieve your draw weight and length in a selfbow without a backing.

[Sidmand]

... See how the twist and bends go and where the reflex and/or deflex is and try to determine the area with the lease amount of artificial manipulation needed. You should look at all 4 sides before determining.
...

This is good advice - I will do this and try to mark up where I think the stave will require the least amount of heating/scraping/twisting/etc to get my bow out of it.

I do want to try the sinew - I have some I get from you (Pat B) in a trade earlier this year and along with what I already had I'm itching to put it on a stick.

[Pat B]

Then, go for it.    We'll be here if you need us.   

[Sidmand]

 I think I got it, here she be.  I used the part of the stave that gave me the most width with the least amount of wiggle, but I'm still going to have to correct it some.  It should be ok though.  60” end to end, 1 1/8 inch wide at handle, sneaks out 7ish inches to 1 inch wide, then it's 1 inch for 12 inches, with a 6 inch taper to 1/2 tips.

[Pat B]

Leave the tips wide for now. You might be able to make corrections from side to side of the tips by removing a little width from the offending side. Once you hit low brace you will see how the string tracks then you can make the corrections and narrow the tips. You can put in temporary side nocks just deep enough for the string then make the style nocks you want later.

[Sidmand]

Will do Pat.  Gonna start rasping soon.

[Pat B]

Keep us posted.