Handle riser glueing

[Wally44]

I was wondering if Titebond wood glue  is good enough to glue on risers  I am making a board bow

[StickMark]

Titebond 3 works for me.  I have a bow with a titebond 3 handle that has worked in 115 to below freezing, and over three years.

Search function on this site is a wealth of knowledge.

[Pat B]

Any of the TB carpenter's glues will work fine for risers just be sure both glue surfaces are flat and well mated.

[airkah]

I've used titebond 2 and 3 for handles, they both work.

[Pat B]

Be sure the handle area of the bow is rigid. If it bends at all the handle can pop off.

[Hamish]

If your belly and backing slats are thick enough titebond can work eg total thickness of 1" or so before gluing on a riser. If not, the area at the fade will flex and titebond can(will) lift.

If you want a bullet proof glue urea formaldehyde, or a proven bowmakers epoxy. Even flexing at the fade the exposed joint won't fail. Regular 24hr hardware store epoxy won't be rigid enough either. I came to this conclusion years ago from many failed attempts so you if you risk something else get ready to waste some time and materials, and potentially a broken bow.

[Wally44]

Alright thanks guys

[Pat B]

If you are using a board for your bow it is probably about 3/4" thick. If you leave it that thick at the handle the handle area shouldn't flex and the riser will stay put.

[Wally44]

 i am using a 3/4 inch  white oak board  it's alot easier that way  my first one was  a stave

[Hamish]

 My experiments were touch and go with TB at the 3/4" depth, before gluing a riser on, some worked and some didn't. The wider, flatter the design, means you are more likely you are to have shallower limbs with the join further away from the dips = better chance of keeping the joint intact. I just don't risk it anymore, and use a bowmakers epoxy to avoid the risk of having to repair it later.

[bownarra]

With good design and execution TB3 works perfectly.
A powerlam allows the use of much thinner stock for the belly lam. More bows per board and way less waste.
Another key point is to get close to finished tiller and weight before bending it very far. Bending a bow still too heavy will of course cause more bending in the fade area than on a stave that is close to finished weight.

[Eric Krewson]

The real key is design, most new bowyers make a much to abrupt of a transition from the handle to the limb. Spread the fade over at least 2 1/2" and add a couple of 1/8" lams as part of the glued on handle and it will stay in place.

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