Bow building Definition

[Woodely]

Some where along the line I missed the proper definition of Overbuilding a bow.  So an over built bow is what again explained in simple terms.  And if a bow is overbuilt during the tillering process  a correction can remedy that to build a normal bow.  Correct..?  And is it easier for an over built bow to take more set.

[Del the cat]

IMO It just means making it so it isn't over stressed, so make it a couple of inches longer than you need, maybe a tad wider so it has an easy time of it.
It is less likely to take set, but won't be blisteringly fast... sort of opposite to a flight bow... it will give you reliability.
One big advantage is that you can cut it down a tad and race tune it later once it has settled down and proved itself...that's far better than trying to build something really efficient and finding it has blown up, taken set, bent sideways etc...
Del

[DC]

I agree with Del. I don't think an overbuilt bow will take more set. I think the chances are better that a highly stressed bow will take more set.

[SLIMBOB]

Agree and...to answer your question on set, an overbuilt bow will take LESS set, not more.  I think all of mine are overbuilt by this definition.  I want durability and sweetness in mine with speed being of less importance.  I haven't shot thru a chrono in years so I have nothing but a guess as to arrow speed to begin with and it has little impact.  That's just me.  With others, they build them for speed.

[Badger]

    I get more speed from what is often refereed to as an overbuilt bow. I consider overbuilt to be using mass that is not needed, usually in the outer limbs. For several years I was building my osage bows between 16 and 18 oz for a 64" long bow. Now I am going usually to 66" and they usually come in between 21 and 23 oz. In my experience avoiding set is the number one thing you can do to improve speed, not to be confused with adding extra reflex so you will still have some reflex when you are finished. The closer you are at the finish of a bow to the profile it had when you started the better your performance will be. The bow will also be under less stress and last longer, a win win situation. Working on a 67" right now that looks like it will come in at about 25 or 26 oz which is really heavy. So far it hasn't taken any detectable set. I plan to use this bow as my flight bow this year if it continues as it is. In my opinion the vast majority of bows are underbuilt.

[Woodely]

What does weight have to do with it, after all most of the wood is in the handle area.  Or are you referring to limb weight.