Molle question

[DC]

Would any of these ideas add or at least maintain the torsional stiffness.

[Del the cat]

Would any of these ideas add or at least maintain the torsional stiffness.

I don't think so.
Not sure why you have the flipped tip on a molle' ... not sure if it achieves much... mind it makes it easy to add the string stiffening idea.
To improve torsional stiffness add ribs to make the lever a T section (or an inverted T) or V/inverted V
Del

[DC]

Not sure why you have the flipped tip on a molle' ... not sure if it achieves much...
Del

I've had such good luck with the RD's that I've made that I decided to try combining the two. I've measured the "dynamic" limb length on various limbs and found that a straight bow shortens quite a bit as it bends. RD not so much and recurved RD's even less. Whether this means anything, I'm not sure but I'm going to run with it for a bit.

[lleroy]

anyone else have good ideas on how to thin levers, limbs or near the handle so it *almost* bends?
how do you know that the next shave you're going to remove will be too much?

[simk]

As Del said: "inverted V" must be best for torsion stiffness. hollow it to save mass.

[PatM]

Good alignment makes torsional rigidity less important.  The Asiatic composite bowyers had it figured out though.  Thin bone plates and a teardrop cross section is lighter than needing width for a groove.

[DC]

Good alignment makes torsional rigidity less important. 

This is so true. With the Molle I just finished I got really lucky and hit the alignment right on with just one little tweak. Now it draws like a straight bow even with 3" of reflex. I'm going to pay extra attention to having everything straight and true on the next one. Getting it right the first time sure beats 15 heating sessions.

[PatM]

There is an existing very old composite bow with super long siyahs unsupported by side plates.  The tips are even said to be willow.   It is twisted to a corkscrew  now but it likely was fine during its active life.

[DC]

I tried to bend some Sitka Spruce and it was having none of it. It just crushed the inside of the curve so I'll keep it for arrows most likely. I'm thinking of Hazel but I'm bending my last small piece of straight Yew.

[sleek]

May be worth cutting the spruce into thin strips, laying them on a form and laminating them.

[DC]

Good thought, I'd forgotten about that choice, I've never done it. I thought I would make up one of each and weight them.

[PatM]

I would just "plywood"  it and cut the shape you want.   

[DC]

How many plies 3-5?

[PatM]

Your backing is presumably going to support it so  I would go with 3-4.    I would run them vertical and at 45 degrees.

[DC]

Thanks Pat. I'm not so sure about it. I'm sure it would be strong enough I'm just afraid it would look like, well, plywood. Especially if you tapered it. I guess if you tapered through a layer you could veneer it.