New project

[sleek]

Haha.... yeah, careful, ypu can change the tiller like that.

[PatM]

Definitely the ripples in the back are dangerous.  That's really not much different from cutting through the grain.

[sleek]

Id take the repair wrap off to do all my finish sanding, otherwise you may develop a step at the wrap and cause a stress riser to form there.

Get her dolled up, and id bet ole patches may become your favorite bow for awhile.

[DC]

I was going to do that because I had some difficulty with the wraps. I wound them on with great care so that each thread was laying right beside its neighbour. They were nice and smooth. When I put the CA on(as little as I could) the threads seemed to jump up. In the picture the sanding dust accents it. They were laying right side by each until the glue hit. Maybe I should use wood glue or something that I could wipe down?? Don't know why the wood is so much darker on one side of the wrap. It isn't in real life.

[sleek]

Honestly, id give hide glue a try as it shrinks while it dries, it would pull any gaps closer, as well as permeate the string and crack. Then your finish over the glue will waterproof it.

[PatM]

Epoxy is also better.  I would use silk buttonhole thread so you don't have to worry about each strand lying exactly next to the other.

 Actually I would still sinew instead to be honest.

[Woodely]

Dont know what some of you guys gat against TB.  I have used TB on wrap repairs like that and it holds quite well, if it lets go then it tells me there is obviously to much stress in that area.  Band-aids are what they are.   Or do what Sleek says "give hide glue a try"

I have seen lots of manufactured old bows de-laminate and I dont think they were using water based glues.

[willie]

I guess the speed is all the bow sees...

very nice project. bet you already have some more ideas to try next.

have you inputted your specs into any design programs or made photos to overlay, as a reference for the next try?

[sleek]

Dont know what some of you guys gat against TB.  I have used TB on wrap repairs like that and it holds quite well, if it lets go then it tells me there is obviously to much stress in that area.  Band-aids are what they are.   Or do what Sleek says "give hide glue a try"

I have seen lots of manufactured old bows de-laminate and I dont think they were using water based glues.

I use it all the time. He wants something that will finish better.

[DC]

I like epoxy but it goes on a little thick. I would have to practice a bit with it. I'm thinking the hide glue is removable. If it goes on a bit lumpy I can just wipe it with a damp cloth and get back to looking like fresh thread. That's my plan anyhow.

[bradsmith2010]

Is string serving too thick?

[PatM]

I like epoxy but it goes on a little thick. I would have to practice a bit with it. I'm thinking the hide glue is removable. If it goes on a bit lumpy I can just wipe it with a damp cloth and get back to looking like fresh thread. That's my plan anyhow.

 Warm WEST 105 with a drop of lacquer thinner.  Tape off the binding and paint it on with a watercolor paintbrush.

[DC]

I think serving string would work, I used upholstery thread. The hide glue worked good so far. While I was rewrapping it I discovered why it worked so poorly last time. I thought the way I was wrapping was bulletproof but I was actually overlapping a couple of wraps. That was making the lumps. I couldn't feel them until I got the glue on. This time I examined it with a 10x magnifying glass and I could see the laps and undo them. I could have used CA just fine. Expert bowyer my butt

[ohma2]

Upholstery thread has worked well for me soaked with thin super gllue.
Looking forward to seeing it .

[DC]

It's nice and dry now and looks like there is no glue on it, just the look I wanted. I'll oil it as soon as the garage is warmer.