New project

[sleek]

Thus is looking very interesting. What are your hopes for draw weight and length?

[leonwood]

That looks pretty good to me! I would use the maple
I did build a few ipé/bamboo deflex/reflex mollies and they where all good shooters. Building a wide elderberry molly with reflexed levers at the moment... Might deflex at the handle just for the fun of it!

[PatM]

I would use sinew and the Maple.     We don't see enough tri-lams with sinew as one of the lams.

[leonwood]

I would use sinew and the Maple.     We don't see enough tri-lams with sinew as one of the lams.

Agreed, we need more tri-lams! Or... skip the yew altogether and add a horn belly.
(Sorry just fooling around a bit )

[Bayou Ben]

Nice project DC.  So just deflex in the limbs meaning the only reflex is coming form the glued on recurve/levers? 

[DC]

Sleek- I make all my bows right around 40# so I can shoot them. It's 62" TTT at the moment. Not a shorty by any means. I may take an inch off the tips depending on how much reflex I end up with.
Pat and Leon_ it will be a tri-lam but one of the lams will be tung oil I guess that would make it a quad lam.
Ben- I'm planning on gluing a little reflex in when the maple goes on.

[simk]

Nice project DC and fast progress.

Where did you come up with 13:17 Is it some kind of Fibonacci sequence?

In fact not so complicated/scientific. Read about moelles in the www and found a discussion on paleo planet where somebody suggested the 13/17 ratio. Seemed reasonable to me for a first try.

Looking forward to see that bow next week 

Cheers

[DC]

It just makes you wonder, what an oddball set of numbers. There must be some kind of reasoning behind it. Is that actual measurement or is it a ratio? This one will be about 13" working and 14" lever. I've never made a Molle before so I'm on dangerous ground.

[DC]

Simk-Could you tell me the dimensions of the levers on the Molle you posted the other day. It's mostly the width and thickness I'm interested in. I'm getting a little chicken looking at this

[DC]

Before I get ahead of myself I'm wondering if I should beef up the transition from limb to lever like in the picture but both sides? The reason there is no taper there is that the recurves were just a trial I had kicking around and now I'm wondering if that is going to be a weak spot.

[sleek]

I think laying a backing over the entire thing will do you fine. How long is that splice?

[DC]

3" This means that I can't have a nice short transition from limb to lever but I knew that when I decided to put a splice there and I was a bit chicken to use a shorter splice.

[sleek]

3" This means that I can't have a nice short transition from limb to lever but I knew that when I decided to put a splice there and I was a bit chicken to use a shorter splice.

At 3 inches, id probably put an underlay on it as well. And if you want to have a nice transition,  you may consider side lams, one on each side of the splice, going from splice into the recurve. I have done them and they look amazing.

[DC]

The side lams sound nice and would beef up the part of the joint I'm concerned with (sideways bend) so I will do that instead of what I posted. I'm not so sure why I would want an underlay though. The joint is in compression and should be good with normal bending. have you ever posted a bow with side lams. How far did you run them past the splice?

[sleek]

The underlay and overlay sandwich the splice for more strength, but, im a chicken after a few bad results. I have posted a biw with side lams, give me time to find them.