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Quote from: Badger on March 15, 2019, 07:44:32 pm The comments I made about short working areas on the limb can be easily confused. When I can get away with short working areas I dod but in most cases I need most of the limb working to avoid set. I usually leave the last 8 or 10" pretty stiff and I like longer fades like 3" or even a bit more only if I can get away with it and not take too much set. Avoiding set is my #1 priority.I agree with you on set being number one. Wouldn't a wider thinner limb be under less stress and take less set?
The comments I made about short working areas on the limb can be easily confused. When I can get away with short working areas I dod but in most cases I need most of the limb working to avoid set. I usually leave the last 8 or 10" pretty stiff and I like longer fades like 3" or even a bit more only if I can get away with it and not take too much set. Avoiding set is my #1 priority.
Quote from: PatM on March 15, 2019, 01:59:20 pmQuote from: Woodely on March 15, 2019, 01:25:54 pmI have only ever built one wide bow. I think it was 1 5/8" wide at the fades. The wood was perfect, I was barely 10 minutes into tillering and exercising it when it blew up on the tiller stick. Won't build another wide limb bow again, all my laminate bows end up at around 1 7/16" to 1 3/8" wide. Surely you don't think that was the cause.I do as a matter of fact, it was to thin and not enough overlapping grain . I think that wide and thin can have a negligible effect on the woods stress limits.
Quote from: Woodely on March 15, 2019, 01:25:54 pmI have only ever built one wide bow. I think it was 1 5/8" wide at the fades. The wood was perfect, I was barely 10 minutes into tillering and exercising it when it blew up on the tiller stick. Won't build another wide limb bow again, all my laminate bows end up at around 1 7/16" to 1 3/8" wide. Surely you don't think that was the cause.
I have only ever built one wide bow. I think it was 1 5/8" wide at the fades. The wood was perfect, I was barely 10 minutes into tillering and exercising it when it blew up on the tiller stick. Won't build another wide limb bow again, all my laminate bows end up at around 1 7/16" to 1 3/8" wide.
DC, for comparison, I do my moelles with 13:17 bend/lever ratio. The bending limb is 1 7/8" wide at the fade, is 38 cm long and has maybe 12-15 mm in thickness.
sleek,,,couldn't u just make the limb shorter,,to compensate for mass,,
So, 1 7/16 wide is ideal. 1 5/8 is a beast. That’s a pretty small difference between the two extremes. That sure doesn’t leave much wiggle room. Are you sure you didn’t just mistate your point? That would be understandable. I once said on here that back sinew wasn’t used for backing bows. Turns out I didn’t use it for that, but many people did. I was just wrong. No harm in being wrong. Remaining that way, a different story.
Quote from: SLIMBOB on March 16, 2019, 10:06:17 amSo, 1 7/16 wide is ideal. 1 5/8 is a beast. That’s a pretty small difference between the two extremes. That sure doesn’t leave much wiggle room. Are you sure you didn’t just mistate your point? That would be understandable. I once said on here that back sinew wasn’t used for backing bows. Turns out I didn’t use it for that, but many people did. I was just wrong. No harm in being wrong. Remaining that way, a different story.Tongues get twisted as do typos, ok maybe 1 13/16" is a beast. At any rate did not know this Forum was so stuck on particulars and Rocket science wizardry.
