What next?

[jeffp51]

How do I know how long a string to make? I could put it back on the tree and measure tip to tip...?
Paul

Learn how to tie a bowyer's knot  (timber hitch).  Then you can adjust one end as you tiller.  once you get to full brace, measure the length and then make a nice string for the actual bow

[paulc]

I'm finally able to get back this.  I've done a bunch more sanding, really really struggled to brace bow and it was way out of balance. And string was too short. i think I see a stiff portion in right limb, fade to about mid-limb..

Anyone agree? Other issues?

Thanks, Paul

[Woodely]

"i think I see a stiff portion in right limb, fade to about mid-limb.."    Its kind of flat in that area.

[paulc]

Today's stopping point. I can just barely draw the bow so hopefully that means it's at least 65lbs...so room for more work to be done. Tell me what you see.

Thanks, Paul

[SLIMBOB]

Appears to me you have something out of wack. Take a ruler and measure from belly to string just outside of the fade. Do the same at the exact spot on the other limb. The two measurements should be close. Within an eight inch or so. Move out 2 inches and take another measurement. Both Limbs at the same spot along the limb. Again, it should be close. I don’t think yours will be. One limb appears to start bending earlier than the other. If I’m wrong just disregard, but if I’m right, you’ll need to fix that.  To do that I would take a 4 inch straight edge and run it along the belly while drawn, and note the gap. It should show little or no gap at the fade and then open up a bit as you move down the limb, closing back up as you reach your recurves. Any stuff spots will be flat with little daylight. Now compare what you just saw to the other limb. They should be very close to mirroring one another. Scrape the flat spots until your gap is even on one limb. Again measure the string just as before and see if that gets it closer.
Edit. You don’t need to draw one this far if there is a problem. Ease up and take your measurements. Once you have fixed it then you can draw it further.

[paulc]

I can def see some oddness in the pics...I could “improve” the tiller by adjusting where the handle was sitting on the rest.  How does everyone deal w wonky shaped handles? Do you get the handle close before going to tiller tree.

[SLIMBOB]

Me, yes. I want it to set in the cradle evenly so I get a true reading on it. I want the string drawn where I will be drawing it with my fingers. Same spot.

[paulc]

Here is where I ended work on this bow yesterday...I did like y'all said and measured the distance from string to bow belly while braced.  And the limb that appears to be bending the most is the one that needs more material taken off the belly to get the numbers to more closely line up.  Granted they are not off too much, maybe 3/8" an inch at the worst part but...Anyway near as I can tell the limb that bends the most is the one that is seems to need more material taken off so that the distance comes more into line with the stiff limb.  So I don't know what to do next.  And of course I ended the work day with discovering a splinter on the back of the bow.  I am guessing saturate it with super glue?  Maybe followed by a sanding?  Or skip the sanding?  Bury it under some sinew?

Bow is pulling about 55lbs.  Which is plenty heavy for me but I am also tempted to heat treat the belly just for the experience...

HELP!!!!  :-)  Paul

[Woodely]

That right limb does not look right.  Seems like its hinging in the fade and not bending much mid limb.   A far as arrows go I always make mine 30" for my 28" draw.  I like to have 2" in front of the handle for aiming

[DC]

I'm looking at the two FD pictures. I just did some rough measuring off my screen and in the top one you don't have the hook centered and in the bottom one you do. That will make a difference in the way it looks. What is the difference you are pointing out in the two pictures?

[SLIMBOB]

More than that going on. My first question is about how level it is in the cradle.  It appears as though it's not.  Looks to me as though it's running down hill from left to right.  I would want it level in order to get a true reading on the tiller.  Getting it level will change things up a bit.  From there you can better make a determination what needs to be done.
Cross posted with DC but I think we are seeing the same thing.

[Woodely]

Go into the house where you have a large mirror and do the mirror draw.  Those mid limbs are not bending much, maybe its to late now.

[paulc]

Dealing w th splinter should come before correcting the tiller?  Paul

[scp]

Dealing w th splinter should come before correcting the tiller?  Paul

Definitely. I am not even sure the bow will survive at all. I would stop bending it so much before I balance the limbs and make sure that they are bending evenly. Make the "tillering gizmo" and use it a lot. Don't forget the long even strokes with scrapers or sand papers.

[paulc]

I got back to this last night...I checked the cradle and it is level.  I measured the handle and the left side is perhaps an 1/8" thicker than right side.  But there is also a proud spot on handle due to a knot that travels through the handle.  Either way the bow is shimmed in this photo so that the handle appears level.  I measured the vertical lines-string to bow belly on the left and the right.  First line from handle on left the bow is within a 1/4" of right side, maybe 3/16ths.  So I think I need to work fade to somewhere around that first line-or a bit beyond that first line right? That would bring the measurements at first line on left and right more in balance.  Is it likely that will allow the rest of the left limb to drop more and more closely match the right limb?  I don't have much wood to remove in this area but I guess it could have a big impact out to where the tip falls?  The tips are out of balance over an inch.

Should the right limb have been worked more in the mid-limb and tip so that the fade area was working less?

Thanks for your help!  P