Leather handles

[DC]

I'm trying to put a leather handle on a bow. The kind that laces up the back. Most of my leather is recycled jackets and coats and it wants to tear out the lacing holes. Is that just a function of the crummy leather? I'm not pulling very hard but you have to get the slack out. Any hints? Links to Youtube?

[DC]

I just watched a Three Rivers Youtube on how to do this. He used Barge cement. I've never seem Barge around here (Canada). Is it just contact cement? He just coated one side and didn't let it dry. Contact cement you coat both sides and let it dry. Is this an alternate method of use?

[BowEd]

I've done this in the past with beavertail rawhide.Glue another layer of sounder leather on the under side along the seam before sewing it up.
I'll send you some scrap pieces of brain tan sometime for handle wraps.Gaurantee you they won't tear out.
I use the contact cement.

[Dances with squirrels]

Use better leather. Not only will they not teat out, it will probably feel better under your hand too.

I use deer hide and don't punch holes first, just sew it. 3M spray adhesive on the inside of the leather everywhere except where I'm sewing.

[BowEd]

Yep don't punch holes in this brain tan or rawhide.Just use a glover's needle to sew it.

[bentstick54]

Barge cement is like a contact cement. I would think most leather from coats would be rather thin, so like said above,maybe double up around the seam edge. I go to a local Tandy( leather supply store) and rummage through their scrap bin and buy bundles of scraps for very cheap. Then I use the barge cement on the handle wrap, holding back from the seam edges, put a thin coat on 2 sides and belly side of bow handle, glue leather on then stitch. That way you don’t have to pull stitching quite so tight.

[DC]

Thanks guys. I just read the instructions for Barge and it's just contact cement. I guess the guy in the video found a new way to use it.

I had to look up glovers needle. What size do you recommend?

[DC]

Barge cement is like a contact cement. I would think most leather from coats would be rather thin, so like said above,maybe double up around the seam edge. I go to a local Tandy( leather supply store) and rummage through their scrap bin and buy bundles of scraps for very cheap. Then I use the barge cement on the handle wrap, holding back from the seam edges, put a thin coat on 2 sides and belly side of bow handle, glue leather on then stitch. That way you don’t have to pull stitching quite so tight.

The nearest Tandy's is over a day away and the leather shop wants an arm and a leg for the most useless scrap. I'll scout around. Do you let the glue dry as per the instructions or do you put it on wet?

[BowEd]

I keep a varied size selection around handy.It depends on thickness or size of your lace or string.

[bentstick54]

I put it on both surfaces and spread thin with a toothpick, it only takes a few minutes to get tacky and I put theleather on. I use it more to hold the leather in place while I stitch, and it keeps the leather from slowly sliding around from extended use. I don’t try to put so much on to necessarily make a perminate bond in case I should ever want to remove it.

[Mo_coon-catcher]

What about wet forming the leather to your grip using large paper clamps to pull it tight until dry. That way once you trim the leather you don’t have to pull on the thread hard at all to pull it into place.

Kyle

[bradsmith2010]

DC,,, punch the  holes,,, then glue it on,, it will be stretched,,then sew it up,, pre stretched and glued,, it will look nice and not tear,,

[DC]

I will try those. I wish I liked the Howard Hill grip. It would be easy, I think.

[bentstick54]

X2 what Brad said.

[DC]

On my first few bows I folded the edge of the leather over a piece of piano wire, glued it and then punched the holes behind it. It worked well except for the last hole on the ends. Sometimes the wire would stick out or the hole would tear.