Osage Bendy Layout *Now IPE/Bamboo Bendy

[half eye]

Ben, here is where the left limb needs caught up to the left.

Also I see where you are going back to 28" draw so when you get both limbs pretty much identical bends ( again you are pretty close right now ) .....since you are used to employing a tiller once you are satisfied with the limbs being even bending then pull the bow down to about 50 -52 pounds keeping a close eye that the limbs are even with each other and that you dont have a "flat spot" in the grip area (think "fade hinge" ya are looking for an even overall smooth bend if looks like that then finish off by sanding to exact weigh you want......any sanding to lower weight should be even amount of strokes  so if the one limb gets three full length strokes then the same number and place on the other limb.
rich

[Bayou Ben]

Thanks a bunch Rich.  Funny you caught that spot that’s bending more, I could only see it with the tiller gizmo. And I’m glad I asked for an opinion, because I thought I needed to remove a lot from the inner 1/3rd! 

[burchett.donald]

     Looking awesome Ben...Be careful though, bendy's can be become addictive....You will find that the design is efficient and fast...Rich is a master, he's made hundreds...Really lucky to have him around here...Can't wait to see full circle on this one...
                                                                                    Don

[Bayou Ben]

Thanks Don.  It has been a fun build so far.  I can tell what Rich was saying about the power coming from the handle area on these bows.  You can just feel it when you draw knowing that too much bend would be bad, but just a little bit give will launch an arrow.
 
That being said I don't feel much bend in the handle/fade area. I did a little more last night.  Came to full brace and pulled a couple inches more and tried to work that area Rich pointed out. 
Something still doesn't look just right with the left limb.  I can't put my finger on it though.  Here it is at 22" ~ 52#'s.  It is leaning a little in the cradle, but it feels pretty balanced when I draw in hand, and I have room to fix any of that later. 
   

[TimBo]

Is the left limb bending a bit more than the right?  Maybe that one should be the top limb.  Can you post a photo of you drawing it by hand?  It's looking really close!  (I hate that part, 'cause I don't want to mess everything up!)

[half eye]

Ben, It's looking really good ....a small tweek on the right limb and your balance and arc will be spot on.  I marked the right limb and here is what I would do.

The right tip area SEEMS too stiff but ya jsut need it come around a bit more.....so scrape/sand the green area first a littlle at a time untill that limb bend evens out and looks smooth ....All we are doing is making that limb a smooth bend so dont even look left.  once that bend looks smooth then compare it to the left one....if ya still feel the "off-balance" then sand the red area untill  the right limb matches the left and the balance feels perfect.

I forgot to say that when I scrape or sand a problem "spot" I DO NOT work just that spot. For example if you have a 2" area  that is the problem I'll work that but the actual work area will be 2-4 inches both sides of the area  so I'm working 6-8 inches to correct a 2" problem.....it is all about "smooth and even".  You are exactly on track so once you have the limbs pretty "even" all around draw it back untill it starts to bend in your hand or you feel it start to "stack". I doubt that it will stack on you because you do have the tips working some....just ease it back and if something doesn't "feel" right then give her a good "once over" and correct.

If the bend looks good, and it draws smooth but  it's too heavy then we will start on the pesky middle of the bow.  Also be aware of the tips because you dont want them too stiff or you will overstrain the mid-limb.

It is looking real good sir.

[burchett.donald]

   Looking good Ben, want to see that full circle pop out at full draw buddy...
                                                                                                                  Don

[Morgan]

Ben, looking forward to seeing this one all done. I have several ipe boards and thought that you could make a boo backed D bow under 1” wide with it, this will prove the thought. I think it looks real good so far! Everyone is different, but I have half a dozen bows I’ve kept for myself and there are two that I grab 90% of the time when I want to stump or target shoot, both are bend through the handle bows, one being an eastern woodlands style. This build may be the start of a stack of D bows on your rack lol.

[Bayou Ben]

I was thinking the same thing Tim.  I need to get an in the hand pic, because it looks a little different than on the tree, but I may be out of pic favors from the wife at the moment after my last bow photo session a few days ago, 
Morgan, you can definitely make a bendy under 1" wide with ipe, go for it.  If this bow doesn't make it, it will be 100% my fault. 

I worked the spots that Rich highlighted just a little.  I thought it looked good and pulled it a couple more inches.  It's @ 24" and 52#'s.  It seems to have balanced back out.  Is it close enough where I can just reduce a little weight out to full draw?
I don't have anything to reference it to, but it doesn't seem to bend much in the hand at this point.  I can barely feel it.

*And I am a little nervous about it stacking, that's why I wanted to keep the tips stiff.  It doesn't seem to stack yet though 

[half eye]

Ben, It looks good sir....before ya go to taking weight off draw it to 26 in your hand. If you can "just feel" the tension (bend) then STAY AWAY FROM THE MIDDLE. The only reason for this +2" draw is to make sure you are not "whip tillered" and the tips are still working if they look stiff thats OK but it will change how you final sand the belly.

You are that close to done....just a few sanding strokes and you will be ready for finish....stay away from the middle 6-7 inches......dont make me turn the car around you are very near to done bud.

Check those 2 things "feel" and a pic of your tips at 26"....and I'll post ya a pic of how to house-break this puppy.
rich

[Bayou Ben]

Check those 2 things "feel" and a pic of your tips at 26"....and I'll post ya a pic of how to house-break this puppy.
rich

Lol.  Sounds like a plan!

[Bayou Ben]

And forgot to ask, how do you normally setup where you will place your hand  vs the physical center of the bow? 
I'm pretty set on this one already, but for next time I would like to know what's the best way to set it up. 

[Bayou Ben]

Okay, got the wife to snap a quick pic for lunch, and she didn't even complain about it 

26" and 56#'s in the pic.  I'm not worried about weight at this point.  I'll just fix what needs fixing, and let the weight come out where it is.

I feel a slight bit of tension at draw, but my gut feeling is it could bend more.  Balance wise, the top limb could use a couple scrapes.

[half eye]

Ben, you are there buddy. Your imbalance is coming from the area I have marked in red. That spot is not bending quite enough....This is a very small adjustment so work the area lightly. The reason I say that is this: your upper limb has a 90 degree angle and the lower limb is just slightly less so only work that area till your angle's are even and your imbalance will go away....this last little thing qualifies as nit-pickin that is how small the amount is off.

The area I marked is where you should work a limb to "bring it around" in every case so never work the actual last 3" or so.

I did not see your question before so as to where to grip your bow...I use the geometric 4 inches of the bow because I want to be able to just grap it and shoot it. You now have a bow that does not necessarily have a "top" limb ya can shoot either one "up" I can tell from your pic that you are used to shooting bows with regular grips. You are using the the entire palmer surface of the bowhand. I use a high wrist where only the wed of the thumb and index finger is on the bow and shoot off the hand. This is where the 4" comes in, I grab the bow so that either of the 4" lines are the arrow rest that puts my Mediterranean release nearly centered in the bow. 

The reason for the high wrist is mostly because I got in the habit of having a couple of spare arrows in my bow hand....so....with a full hand grip you tend to mash those arrows hard against the bow and high wrist allows me to cradle those arrous away from the bow.

Ya get those angles a little closer and you got a bow....irregardless of weight I expect you find the draw smooth with no stack....and I'm pretty sure you will like the way it spanks an arrow
rich

[Bayou Ben]

Thanks so much Rich for your help.  Hopefully others are learning too from all of your great advice. 

On my last few bows I have been measuring the string angles with a protractor on the picture.  Not very accurate but it gives you a good idea of where you are.  I show top at 78 degrees and the bottom is 74 degrees.   
I'll work the spot you mentioned an try and even them up. 

So I shouldn't be concerned about stacking when drawing it these last 2 inches to 28"?