Which limb top or bottom?

[BowEd]

Hello...I pose this question as I've done it both ways for reasons many know and would like to hear comments from them as to why and I'll explain later to others here who don't.In the past I've made quite a number in succession close to same length type bows with reflex into the teens.Wood/horn/and sinew being the components.I like their durability and performance.While doing this I've come very close to my balanced limb needs in draw length and draw weight right from first bracing.Reasons are I want to avoid any excessive horn removal for limbs being balanced as horn reduces set.Usually using horn of 3/16" thickness or less I usually watch this very closely while tillering.
When 1 limb has a slight more reflex than the other say of less than 1" does that limb go on top or the bottom?Making self bows I've put the deflexed limb on the bottom generally.With horn bows I've liked to put the more reflexed limb on the bottom.The opposite.That way I don't need to remove more material from the top limb for a positive tiller to get it to bend more.
These bows are already very close to being balanced and opened up into a boat shape before bracing.I do realize heating is an option to balance and reduce reflex but usually avoid this with this type bow.This is assuming of course too the tip alignment is good which I've been lucky to get through careful construction.

[Stick Bender]

Ed I dont have any comment on your question just another question ,how far above center do you rest your arrow on that bow  ?

[BowEd]

 With like type length limbs usually around 1 and 5/8" give or take an 1/8".

[JNystrom]

In my own bows, i always put the more bending limb as a top limb. This is the only way in my opinion a bow will be balanced in your hand. Personally i like the look of positive tiller in the top limb, but if its not the case (top limb is reflexed and could appear like its not bending as much as bottom limb even though it does) it doesn't matter.

With hornbows i like to place nock of my arrow as middle as i can. Well, at least with the only hornbow I've made and shot! It is quite some shorter ottoman flight bow so it might be a bit more sensitive with this.

[BowEd]

I appreciate your comment but as stated earlier I always have a positive tiller on the bows I make no matter what length.The arrow pass is always around the same distance above center of handle even on a short turkish horn bow I've made also but is not a referral to my original question.

[mullet]

The horn bow that I have from James Parker has a strong and week limb. He told me if I shoot it with a thumb ring to put the strong limb on top and if I shoot two finger under to put the weak limb on the bottom.

[BowEd]

 He should know and has shown that he knows what he's talking about.Maybe you got a pic of that bow?I'd love to see it.

[JNystrom]

I appreciate your comment but as stated earlier I always have a positive tiller on the bows I make no matter what length.

Ok, i didn't find it from the last post.

The arrow pass is always around the same distance above center of handle even on a short turkish horn bow I've made also but is not a referral to my original question.

It was the only similar case i could compare. In my opinion short hornbows are more tricky of the center spot - since the middle part is "shorter".

You asked whether you put 1" reflexed limb top or bottom? I say: preferably bottom, but to do this, it needs to bend less than the top limb.
More in general, if other limb is more reflexed than the other, i wont bend the reflexed limb as much as the less reflexed counter part. I believe in equal stress, no matter what the tiller looks like.
So just going for positive tiller in tiller shape can make unbalanced bow, in my opinion.
English is not my mother language, so im sorry if my text is not the easiest to follow.

Also, forgot to say this in the beginning, but its a really beautiful bow you have there. Plenty of reflex.

[BowEd]

JNystrom....Thanks for comment on bow.I guess it's supposed to be unusual to use hickory as a core.I've found no problems with using it.I like tighter grained type hickory though where the early wood looks almost like dots on the side grain.A very tight interlocking type grain in that hickory also and is plenty elastic and dense enough for the job.No problems with glueing either knock on wood....Ha Ha.The 3 main things a core has to have is what I see it having.Perfectly straight grain wood of course as all cores should be.
Yes I agree the bow has to feel right with a loose grip for me while shooting is what I do.Hitting my mark with consistency.Even the stiff non working portion of a shorter turkish bows' handle compared to a self bow can be rather long also to help that adjustment.The grip size can be adjustable on those too the way I see it.
Top limb or bottom the more reflexed has worked for me to put the more reflexed limb on the bottom at least on complex composites.Reasons are for positive tiller I'd be thinning the top limb too much to suit me.Just something I try to avoid as the horn thickness reduces set.As long as after bracing the tillered bow settles in quickly to being balanced is good enough for me.Then stays that way hours later after shooting.
Composites are a little different type animal than the self bows where I put the more deflexed limb on the bottom most times because of the stress involved.Every bow is different a little that's for sure though.