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Author Topic: Nock point  (Read 8823 times)

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Offline Dances with squirrels

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Re: Nock point
« Reply #30 on: August 28, 2018, 03:33:17 pm »
After scraping and sanding on the left, bottom limb a little bit. Didn't take much.
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Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline Dances with squirrels

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Re: Nock point
« Reply #31 on: August 28, 2018, 03:34:08 pm »
she's trackin'
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Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline Dances with squirrels

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Re: Nock point
« Reply #32 on: August 28, 2018, 03:35:32 pm »
low brace
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Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline Dances with squirrels

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Re: Nock point
« Reply #33 on: August 28, 2018, 03:39:19 pm »
pulling toward the bottom limb again just a little. Need to weaken it a tad if ya want it perfect. Should go without saying, but these relative strength adjustments are done in conjunction with tiller adjustments that remove flat spots, adjust alignment, and such too, right...
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Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline Dances with squirrels

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Re: Nock point
« Reply #34 on: August 28, 2018, 03:40:36 pm »
fixed, exercised, checked, then braced a little higher
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Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline Dances with squirrels

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Re: Nock point
« Reply #35 on: August 28, 2018, 03:41:56 pm »
right down the line... on the way to full draw
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Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline Dances with squirrels

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Re: Nock point
« Reply #36 on: August 28, 2018, 03:44:45 pm »
...
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Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline Dances with squirrels

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Re: Nock point
« Reply #37 on: August 28, 2018, 03:59:03 pm »
It bothers me for some stupid symmetrical-minded reason that the profiles of the limbs are a little different. The tiller isn't off, it's just relevant to how the bless-ed thing came out of the form, but this it a very sweet shooting bow. The most memorable arrow I ever shot out of it was the first. It almost felt like I didn't have a bow in my hand. Perfectly balanced on my middle finger to carry, balanced throughout the entire draw, and that first arrow flew straight as a laser. Never forget it. Plan the work and work the plan.
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Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline BowEd

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Re: Nock point
« Reply #38 on: August 28, 2018, 04:16:12 pm »
DWS...I could'nt of explained it better myself.I use the same method.

In doing so I find very little problems finding nocking point on bow after bow.
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BowEd
You got to stand for something or you'll fall for anything.
Ed

Offline DC

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Re: Nock point
« Reply #39 on: August 28, 2018, 04:30:31 pm »
Thank you very much. It will take me a while to digest and try this. have to modify the bottom of my tree. I use a double block system so I only have to pull half as hard so I have to sort that out. Thanks again, you went above and beyond :D :D

Oh, how wide is your saddle, 4"?
« Last Edit: August 28, 2018, 04:44:07 pm by DC »
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Offline DuBois

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Re: Nock point
« Reply #40 on: August 28, 2018, 04:57:46 pm »
Wow! Left or right of plumb...(emojis don't work or there would be some here)
I never have seen a tree like this or thought of the plumb line method! Makes me want to take all my past bows and check em with it but that might really hurt my ego.
That is awesome and I'm sure it could improve my tillering results quite a lot!

But, Dang it, I now have to go get to work on an improved tree set up.

Thanks Fellas and thanks DC for this post.
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Offline Dances with squirrels

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Re: Nock point
« Reply #41 on: August 28, 2018, 05:18:37 pm »
You betcha, Dc.

BowEd, looks like you're pulling through the center of the handle. Can ya shoot like that? I don't think yer doing it how I do it... unless yer stringwalkin.
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Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline DC

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Re: Nock point
« Reply #42 on: August 28, 2018, 05:34:57 pm »
Quote from: Dances with squirrels on August 28, 2018, 03:06:19 pm
Before I answer, I need to know whether your bow is being supported in the tree so it cannot tilt on the cradle, or if it is allowed to move freely. To start at least, because it's a better initial indicator, I like the handle to be perfectly level and supported so that it can't tilt. Get the handle section level. Don't worry about whether one tip is in front of the other. This mistake is often made.
I've always let the bow move freely so I tried it both ways. This works well if the bow can't tilt but doesn't seem to work at all if you let it tilt.

I'm trying a bow now and put it on the tree with the top to the right, it drifts to the left about an inch at FD so the bottom limb is heavy. So I turned the bow end for end and tried it thinking that I should see the reverse but this way it follows the plumb line straight down. Any ideas, answers :)
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Offline Dances with squirrels

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Re: Nock point
« Reply #43 on: August 28, 2018, 05:38:46 pm »
Yes, 4" wide, because that's how long I make my handles, and it supports the handle only near the outside edges. That way it won't tip, even if there is a significant disparity between their strengths, relatively speaking. If it's WAY off, it will still tip.

That will get you a good start. Following that, I made inserts that drop down into the cradle that can be swapped out or moved to support it anywhere an archer might prefer his bow hand pressure point... or used to FIND the dynamic balance point of any bow in which it's unknown.

And yes, you're right, it makes you want to test all of your previous bows... but I'm not sure I'd recommend it. I ended up retillering and refinishing a bunch of them.... finally had to stop... cuz I preferred to build new ones. I still do it once in a while though. Sometimes curiosity just gets the better of ya.


Btw, I do all of my bows this way... glass bows too.
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Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline Dances with squirrels

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Re: Nock point
« Reply #44 on: August 28, 2018, 06:00:47 pm »
Good point, flipping them end for end on the tree is a necessary verification. I do it all the time just to double check everything from pulley position to handle shape. The tree must be identical both ways, 1/16 or 1/32 of a difference between the height of the handle support of the left and right side projects out to a huge difference at the tips. Same with pulley position. You cant balance a bow if anything is off. The plumb lines, on left and right side, must be the same but exactly opposite.... flipped back and forth without altering the tiller, the bow should ACT the same each way.

You MUST take the time now to make this right. It might be a pita today, but after you do, I promise it will be worth it and will reward you in spades.

I used a 4' level to check my 4" handle support and checked the level twice before I used it.

Level the cradle best you can. Plumb the lines and pulley as best you can under your fulcrum. Check and adjust and  check and adjust. It's worth it.
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Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer
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