Author Topic: Nock point  (Read 8819 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline Badger

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,124
Re: Nock point
« Reply #15 on: August 27, 2018, 05:19:48 pm »
  I put mine just below the arrow shelf maybe 1/4 to 1/2" this usually gives me an arrow nocking point of about 1/4" high.

Offline DC

  • Member
  • Posts: 10,396
Re: Nock point
« Reply #16 on: August 27, 2018, 05:25:51 pm »
  I put mine just below the arrow shelf maybe 1/4 to 1/2" this usually gives me an arrow nocking point of about 1/4" high.

Sorry, your what?

Offline George Tsoukalas

  • Member
  • Posts: 9,425
    • Traditional and Primitive Archers
Re: Nock point
« Reply #17 on: August 27, 2018, 05:36:11 pm »
I tiller from the center until there is 1 inch to go and then finish it off in front of a mirror or have my daughter or wife snap a digi pic. I aim for even tiller or the bottom limb about a 1/4 inch stiffer at full draw. Jawge
Set Happens!
If you ain't breakin' you ain't makin!

Offline Badger

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,124
Re: Nock point
« Reply #18 on: August 27, 2018, 08:52:51 pm »
  I put mine just below the arrow shelf maybe 1/4 to 1/2" this usually gives me an arrow nocking point of about 1/4" high.

Sorry, your what?

  The plumb line

Offline Dances with squirrels

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,222
Re: Nock point
« Reply #19 on: August 28, 2018, 04:03:18 am »
Put the hook on the string where your string hand fulcrum point is (center of pressure), for me, that is the middle of my middle finger. And like Badger, when it's all figured out, my fulcrum, the center of my middle finger is 1/4" below the shelf.

But you need to lay it out for yourself. We grip the string differently, our hands and fingers are different size, etc. Do it right there on the wall. Mark the handle and shelf location. Measure up from the shelf(to the right of the tree cradle if the top limb is to the right) to the bottom of the nock point, subtract the thickness of the arrow nock and half the width of your middle finger, if shooting split. That's where you pull the string from, and that's where you draw the plumb line down the wall.

Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline DC

  • Member
  • Posts: 10,396
Re: Nock point
« Reply #20 on: August 28, 2018, 11:33:51 am »
Measure up from the shelf to the bottom of the nock point
I'm having trouble understanding this.
Lets go on a little further in how you use this. I always put top limb to the right and pull down on the string.
So we have everything mounted and a plumb line marked. We pull on the rope and the idea is that the hook should follow the plumb line right to full draw. Am I right so far? Lets say the hook travels to the left of the plumb line. What do we do to the tiller to correct that?

Offline George Tsoukalas

  • Member
  • Posts: 9,425
    • Traditional and Primitive Archers
Re: Nock point
« Reply #21 on: August 28, 2018, 01:08:33 pm »
My arrow pass is about 1.25" above the self but that can vary depending on tiller.

Then I put my bow square  on the braced bow, mark a series of lines around the string where I think could be the possible nock point, and go out and shoot.

When I'm happy with the flight I'll wrap a 1/4" by 2" strip of duct tape and leave it for awhile. When I'm happy with the spot, I'll tie on my nock point. Simple.

What is good arrow flight?

http://traditionalarchery101.com/selfbowcare.html

Jawge
Set Happens!
If you ain't breakin' you ain't makin!

Offline DC

  • Member
  • Posts: 10,396
Re: Nock point
« Reply #22 on: August 28, 2018, 01:12:49 pm »
Something I just thought of. If you design and engineer a bow sort of around the nock point or you just make a bow and then adjust the nock point does one bow shoot any better. Why is one way better than the other?

Offline DuBois

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,020
Re: Nock point
« Reply #23 on: August 28, 2018, 01:55:23 pm »
If I use a tree I hook rope where I think nocking point will be if I am sure which limb is up, which I try to start out knowing but could change. I do the majority of tiller in the hand now. I guess once I am sure which limb is top I am sort of designing bow to the nocking point since I try to pull as close as possible to where I think it will be.

Anybody know how true "primitives" dealt with nocking arrows and getting the best from bow??

Offline DC

  • Member
  • Posts: 10,396
Re: Nock point
« Reply #24 on: August 28, 2018, 02:17:22 pm »
DWS, do you think you could post a picture of a bow on your tree? Maybe that would sort out some of my confusion. I'm trying all sorts of configurations and nothing gives me a warm fuzzy feeling :D

Offline Dances with squirrels

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,222
Re: Nock point
« Reply #25 on: August 28, 2018, 03:06:19 pm »
"We pull on the rope and the idea is that the hook should follow the plumb line right to full draw. Am I right so far?"

Yes, generally. Except, the farther apart your bow's center and string fulcrum, the harder time you'll have getting the hook to follow the line early in the draw, but you can still tiller it so it gets there. At full draw, they should all be balanced, or very nearly so... there may be reasons to leave this or that limb a hair stronger, dynamically. This is an additional reason I prefer asymmetrical bows, for myself, at least. The bow center and fulcrums are all closer to one another, within a fraction of an inch, or can even all be put in the exact same place in some cases(three under), and the bow draws in a very silky smooth clean straight line from beginning to end. Once you feel it, you'll likely not want it any other way.

"Lets say the hook travels to the left of the plumb line. What do we do to the tiller to correct that?"

Before I answer, I need to know whether your bow is being supported in the tree so it cannot tilt on the cradle, or if it is allowed to move freely. To start at least, because it's a better initial indicator, I like the handle to be perfectly level and supported so that it can't tilt. Get the handle section level. Don't worry about whether one tip is in front of the other. This mistake is often made.

When the handle is level and supported there, the hook will drift toward the stronger limb as the limbs are flexed when pulled from our string hand fulcrum. Even/also when long string tillering, it will go toward the stronger limb. That's why I like to use the long string on the tree instead of floor tillering. I get an early indication of dynamic limb balance, and begin making early adjustments, which I think ultimately helps retard set in the limbs. And by stronger limb, I don't mean how it 'looks' at brace, I mean stronger relative to the other limb and the string fulcrum. Stronger in how it acts... indicated by how the hook travels.

Weaken the limb that the hook drifts toward. That's the stronger limb.

DC, this is what I always liked about you. You're inquisitive and ask the questions I wish all would ask... not of me necessarily, I'm a busy guy... lol...  of themselves... of their work, of their bows. Bows know and try desperately to convey to us what they need. 'Why does the bow tilt in the hand?' 'Why does the bottom limb always take more set?' 'Why do they all feel and shoot differently?' We should listen.

I'm telling you guys... you can build bows that are inherently tuned and shoot the same. You can just as easily, or more-so, craft them so that they'll shoot that first arrow perfectly, predictably... one bow after another, than you can while trying to move the nocking point or change your grip on the bow, or retiller it afterwards. Blech. Not me. This is simply building in a straightforward, predictable manner from the get-go to achieve what we all value in our bows, no guessing, no backtracking.
Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline Dances with squirrels

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,222
Re: Nock point
« Reply #26 on: August 28, 2018, 03:27:20 pm »
Ok. Here come the pics...  :OK

Here's a roughed in trilam... bamboo/yew/osage
Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline Dances with squirrels

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,222
Re: Nock point
« Reply #27 on: August 28, 2018, 03:29:24 pm »
Pulley down below. Plumb line on left and right so bow can be flipped. That was my old shop. I now have 4 pulleys, 2 on the left(for split and 3 under) and 2 on the right(for split and 3 under)
Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline Dances with squirrels

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,222
Re: Nock point
« Reply #28 on: August 28, 2018, 03:30:53 pm »
Long string, not yet flexed enough to brace, but you can see the hook is drifting toward the bottom limb on the left.
Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline Dances with squirrels

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,222
Re: Nock point
« Reply #29 on: August 28, 2018, 03:31:51 pm »
close up
Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer