Dogwood Arrows

[Tinker]

I have to say thank you to everyone for all your help with this matter so far. I guess I'm now on the hunt for some different points.

Thanks: Tinker

[Tinker]

Ok so I'm looking on Amazon and finding 125 gr points. I'm seeing them in three ID. 5/16, 11/32, and 23/64. My question is 11/32 or 23/64, and why please?

[sleek]

You want the shaft to be a bigger diameter than the outside diameter of the point.
Why, because lost points in targets sucks.

[BowEd]

I would just get your shafts made first.When using a tapering tool for your point you'll see what type points you'll need.More than likely I would say you would be using a 23/64" tips at 125 grains.They are cheap and not hard to find.Traditional archery suppliers carry them.
I solve the points from coming off some time ago from any 3D target out there by drilling a 1/16" hole through the field tip point.I shoot a lot of 3D and none of my tips pull off any more.When using a ferr-l-tite glue stick I use a torch to melt a fair amount of glue onto your tapered shaft point.I heat the field tip up with the torch holding it with a pliers heating the inside of it to make sure all finishing oil is burned off.I then reheat to liquify the glue on the shaft and press the field tip on securely with a twist using the pliers.All air will leave from inside the tip indicated by the oozing of glue out of the  two 1/16" holes.If your taper on your shaft is done correctly it will go on good and straight.You can do a spin test to see.If too much wobble is present at the tip heat tip back up and put it on straighter.
Dogwood shafts do not need to be perfectly straight as store bought shafts either,but some of yours may very well be perfectly straight too. A slight wiggle in them is fine in the main shaft.As long as the nock and tip are in line it should be fine.No bends by the nock end or tip end is preferred by me.A bowed shaft needs correction though.

[Danzn Bar]

So ED,
Never heard of the 1/16" hole trick.  Are you pinning it or is just the glue coming out of the holes holding the point in place.
How far down do you drill the two holes?
I always need to know the why's on things. 
Thanks,
DBar

[BowEd]

.All air will leave from inside the tip indicated by the oozing of glue out of the  two 1/16" holes

Bill....I drill the holes completely through both sides.Somewhere along the way in the middle of your field tip.Thought I would try it years ago and it definitely works for me for keeping the glue on points shot into any kind of 3D foam.There is some tough 3D foam out there.My tips stay on bud.I use a proper tapering tool on the shaft tip also for matching to put on glue-on tips.I've never needed to pin them to the shaft though.
I believe it's because there is total surface area contact of metal and wood with glue in between.
PS....The reality of this solution of mine is that most 3D tournament shoots are dominated by the compounders.So Targets are made tougher yet to accomodate and handle the 9/32" to 5/16" carbon shafts going 300 fps the compounders shoot.They have screw on tips locked on with lock tite too.The traditional fellas I shoot with still go to the 3D shoots anyway.I realize not everybody does this though too.So goes progress right?

[BowEd]

Tinker....Making a complete set of 12 shoot shafts can take me a whole weekend.You can go as primitive along the way as you like.I can have close to 1.5 hour in time into each shaft,but in the end can have only pennies of investment into each shaft.That's harvesting your own of course.I know they are tougher than my DF's or other split timber shafts of mine.Right up there with bamboo in toughness degree.
I make plain Jane type shafts with no painting or staining put onto them myself but some others do a great job of doing that also.Each to his own.
I use gasket lacquer coating with echo dipper for a finish and then ducco glue for glueing on feathers using an Arizona fletcher.The combo of gasket lacquer and ducco is an excellent bond.My feathers don't come off either.Even after being submerged in water for some time or in heavily dewed grass.
PS....With that long of draw at 34" it's going to be hard with natural materials to stay away from higher massed arrow shafts,but it's doable.

[Danzn Bar]

PS....With that long of draw at 34" it's going to be hard with natural materials to stay away from higher massed arrow shafts,but it's doable.

Hey Tinker
I got some Tonkin cane from eddie (mullet) at the classic a few years back that would be great for your draw lenght.  Small diameter and very stiff.
Check out the tonkin cane for your draw length. It's a little time consuming straighting but well worth the effort.
I have had some luck straighting cane in the past, I be up for some kinda trade with the beautiful tin stuff you do.  Just let me know.
DBar

[Tinker]

PS....With that long of draw at 34" it's going to be hard with natural materials to stay away from higher massed arrow shafts,but it's doable.

Hey Tinker
I got some Tonkin cane from eddie (mullet) at the classic a few years back that would be great for your draw lenght.  Small diameter and very stiff.
Check out the tonkin cane for your draw length. It's a little time consuming straighting but well worth the effort.
I have had some luck straighting cane in the past, I be up for some kinda trade with the beautiful tin stuff you do.  Just let me know.
DBar

I will look into the cane. I have a patch here at home along the creek, but it will be several months before I dare to cut any. I can see a possible trade.

[Tinker]

If I'm understanding Ed properly, he is saying to fletch the fat end of the arrow shaft and  place the polnt on the skinnier end. I was told by another individual at Mojam to do the opposite. I can reduce weight a little bit at a time by sanding then shoot it to test.

[bjrogg]

If I'm understanding Ed properly, he is saying to fletch the fat end of the arrow shaft and  place the polnt on the skinnier end. I was told by another individual at Mojam to do the opposite. I can reduce weight a little bit at a time by sanding then shoot it to test.

I might be missing it but I didn't see where Ed said that. It would allow you to use a weaker spine shaft though. When I first started making arrows I used forsythia for shafts. I really didn't know much about making or tuning arrows. I put the fletching on the fat end point on skinny end. I actually got pretty good arrow flight out of the weaker spines. When I found out everyone else put fletching on skinny end and tried it they flew terribly poor. In your case the long shafts wouldn't need to be as stiff with fletching on fat end, but usually we do it the opposite.
Bjrogg

[sleek]

After reading what Bj wrote, id give it a try on lower spined shafts. It may be a good trick to use to get more use out of otherwise useless materials for you.

[BowEd]

Tinker....Sorry you misunderstood but full length tapered shafts here are all smaller on the nock end than the tip end always.They fly clean and true that way.Yours will too.A nice set of self nocked shoot shafts with a self bow goes as well together as peaches and cream or bacon and eggs.
It may sound hard or confusing to make these shafts but it is'nt once you get into it.I've made dozens like I said.
If you were at my place I'd show you exactly how it's done.
I've looked on the build-a-long thread and didn't see any proper build-a-long for this.All my shoot shafts are already debarked/straightened/and seasoned.Possibly a U tube tutoral is out there for you.I really don't think you need one though.Just dive in and have at it.It's good with shoot shafts to cut more than what you need to always have seasoned ones ready to become arrows.

[bjrogg]

Tinker I agree with everything Ed said. This making arrows can be as simple or complicated as you make it. It's not difficult to make a arrow. It gets a bit trickier to make one that's tuned to your bow. Some say it's harder than making a bow. There's also someplace in between that will give you something fun to shoot. Make one and see how it flies. I'd suggest shooting it before you fletch it and telling us how it acts. You can really learn a lot shooting a arrow without fletching but you might need help explaining what your seeing and why it's happening. For right now safety is probably most important. Make sure you wrap shaft any place it might split. If shaft has a stiff side put that side towards your bow. I wouldn't make a dozen yet. I'd go one step at a time and try to learn from each of them. There's tons of Red Osier Dogwood out there so if you run out I'm sure you'll be able to trade for more or try something else. You should be able to find a YouTube video showing how to make a arrow . Once upon a time I could have recommended one to you but I don't remember who they are now. Have fun and don't be afraid to give it a try. Somebody did this a long time ago with zero information. I'm thinking we can get you in the ballpark.
Bjrogg

[Tinker]

Thanks for all the help full information. I guess I'm to the point of ordering different points, a tapering tool and a scail that reads grains.