Dogwood Arrows

[Tinker]

Hello everyone.

I'm about to try my hand at building my first set of arrows. I'm using dogwood arrow shafts because they are long enough for me to work with, and the price was right.  I have a 34" draw and I will be shooting them from my 50# self bow.
I know I will have to turn the ends down for my pionts on the fat end, and my fletching will go on the skinny end along with cutting my knock.
I am looking for helpful tips from those that have done this build before.

Thank you: Tinker

[sleek]

With a wing span like you got,  you may benefit by learning about war bow arrows?

[bjrogg]

Tinker, I've made a few from Red Osier Dogwood shoots. I like to harvest them on the thicker side and file them to the right spine with my rasp. I file from a little behind center and forward till I get the spine I'm wanting. Then I file the front till I get the weight I'm wanting. I like to bareshaft to tune my arrows to my bow.
   It seems like I need about 8 lbs heavier spine for tapered arrows. They flex further back putting more weight ahead of the bend. They are stiffer on impact though.
    With a 34" long draw your going to need a pretty stiff shaft. I think the formula is something like add 5 lbs for each inch over 28 inches. I might have that wrong. If so someone please correct me. I believe that's with a 125 grain point.
    For points there are several options.
1) sometimes I just use screw in points. First I wrap the end of shaft with sinew to keep it from splitting. Then I drill a hole slightly smaller diameter then the threaded section of the screw on point. Then drill the first quarter inch with a drill the size of the shoulder or unthreaded section of points. Then I screw it in. Usually it will stay right in especially if shaft is slightly larger diameter than point, but sometimes I put a bit of pitch glue on to help hold it in place.
   
2) you can tapper the tip and use glue on point. No need to wrap sinew on front of shaft then.

3) you could use double headed nail and grind off the first head grinding shank between heads into a sharp point. You will have to wrap Dogwood shaft with sinew. Then drill arrow shaft with a drill diameter that fits snugly. You can cut shank of nail to get the weight you want. Dbar is the man for this point.
 
For self knocks again wrap the end of shaft. I use two hacksaw blades to cut my knock. Then I file it till it snugly fits my string with my leatherman.
 Hope that helps you out they make some beautiful durable arrows. They can take a bit of work to keep straight.
Bjrogg

[sleek]

For self nocks i use a drill bit slightly larger than the served string. I drill a hole straight through where the string will sit, 90 degrees to the rings ( prevents split out ). The i take an exacto blade, and slice it from the back of the arrow to the hole. I then take small slices off, making the nock, until the string pops tightly with force through the split and into the drilled hole. Thwn i use sandpaper to round the edges well. By time the edges are rounded nicely, the string takes just the right amount of force to pop in and out of the nock.

[osage outlaw]

With your draw length you could probably fletch up some 1/2" oak dowels and use them for arrows 

[Tinker]

With your draw length you could probably fletch up some 1/2" oak dowels and use them for arrows 

Thanks for the encouragement!!! LOL!!!

[Tinker]

So far what I have is 14 36" dogwood arrow shafts I picked up at MOJAM this year. They are straightened and seasoned. They rainge from 739gr to 1027gr @36" long.  I have 190gr 11/32 glue on field points. I have gateway 5" shield cut feathers R/W.  I also have glue for the points and feathers.  I don't know if this helps with any questions.

[sleek]

You are gonna need a heavier bow, or shoot downhill....

[Tinker]

You are gonna need a heavier bow, or shoot downhill....

I know I will have to lighten them up.

[BowEd]

Tinker...I remember you needing those at Mo Jam.Good that you bring this up.Many ways to skin a cat here.I've skinned quite a few dozen of these.With 14 to start with be happy to get 12 good ones.If your using glue on 125 grain field points or broadheads cut your shafts  to 35.25" long for your 34" draw after you get them spined to what you want.The 3/8" deep self nock[don't worry about grain as these are little trees your shooting and growth rings,not straight line grain as in split timber shafts but still wrap them below the nock a good 3/8"] and the 3/4" long taper for the field point will leave you 34" to the back of the field point to throat of the nock then.The tools I use are a spiner/grain scale/2" by 4" ,6" block of wood with 36 grit sandpaper/and a chunk of moose antler with holes drilled in it 5/16",11/32",23/64",and 3/8" as a sizer.Make sure your shafts are straight before spining them.Heat straighten them if you got to before taking all bows if any out of them.I use a lamp with a mantle round with with a tall glass chimney.Hot enough up there to light a cig if needed.After that spine them.Remove material with block and sand paper on flat work bench.Keep spining them between material removal.Try to keep your full length taper while doing this.When within 5#'s of spine weight go to finer sand paper to fine tune it to your spine.I lots of times use a 1/4" drill then.You can check diameter with your sizer.
At your 34" draw length on a 50# bow using FF string[you'll need 5# stiffer spine using FF than using B-50] your spine should be somewheres' around 75 to 80 pounds but I dare bet 70#'s will shoot fine off the 50# bow at the shaft length you got there.As said every 1" over 28" add 5#'s spine.Full length taper is very forgivable on these shafts.So as you can see there won't be much material removal for you to take off.I would imagine you can get away with 11/32" nocks out to at least 23/64" tips or more.You can shape just the tip area for your glue on 23/64" field tip or broadhead.I've never made them that long before but my guess would be you would have shafts into the 700 grain area.I know your a crafty guy.Let me know what you come up with.I shoot 600 to 650 grain arrows of 45# bows myself all the time.
PS....Take your time.It'll be worth it in the long run.Most times after you make 1 the rest will come close to what that 1 was,as they were all harvested in the same area.Good luck.

[bjrogg]

Tinker I think I read you have 190 grain points. Those will require a even stiffer shaft. I believe it's add another 5 lbs for every 25 grains over 125. Your going to need another almost 15 lbs of spine using those weight heads. I think I'd try getting some 125 grains points. Your going to end up with a Atlatl dart for a arrow.
I'm thinking Ed's probably about right for a 125 grain point. I'm thinking around 75 or 80 lbs at that length. I've never made one that long though either.
Bjrogg

[sleek]

You may be best off sourcing cane for arrows and using footed shaft inserts. Obviously use what you got now,  but, for future, cane can get stiff without much weight.

[BowEd]

Correct about the grain gain to spine flucuation.Forgot to mention that.Get rid of those 190 grain points.Not needed here.You'll have more than enough KE from those your gonna shoot....lol.These shafts are doable with dogwoods.

[bjrogg]

I agree with Ed. I think those shafts will work for you but I'd switch to 125 grain points.
Bjrogg

[BowEd]

I just spined ones exactly as the ones you got from me.There is plenty of length and wood there.The nock ends will be close to 23/64" and the tip ends will be close to 3/8" or a shade less than that in the end at 35.25" long.At that thickness they are into 80 to 85 pound spine range.
I think you would be better off using a good 60# bow+ though as the mass weight will be mid to upper 700's.