Efficient youth bows

[Louie]

Hi Matt
Im also a saffer. Where in S.A. are you situated?

[MattZA]

Hi Matt
Im also a saffer. Where in S.A. are you situated?

Hey Louie, I'm based in Jo'burg. Fourways.

[Louie]

I'm in the cape. I can help you source wood like ipe, massaranduba, hickory, white oak, elm, maple. Send me your number in a PM and I'll gladly help you out. There are a few fantastic bowyers here in S.A.
Welcome to the addiction.

[MattZA]

I sent you a PM, but not sure it went through. I'll try again.

[bubby]

If she has a 22" draw build a pyramid bow about 56" long, plenty of length for that draw weight. Siyahs are probably above your skill level

[bubby]

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.msg464947.html#msg464947
Try this build a long just make the bow shorter

[MattZA]

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.msg464947.html#msg464947
Try this build a long just make the bow shorter

Thanks bubby, that's pretty much exactly what I'm doing. I've got my bow roughed out, and will start rough tillering tomorrow. Just don't have the time tonight.

Are siyahs technical to build? I was considering gluing and wrapping static recurves onto the tips. Even if at a slight angle, would that not add any effect?

[MattZA]

Update:

I have been following Bubby's guide on a simple flat bow. During tillering a crack suddenly appeared by the handle. Is it firewood? Could it be used as a 30# bow instead of a 45#? I've even backed it with fibreglass drywall tape to try protect it.

Any advice would be appreciated. I'll post a photo soon.

[MattZA]

Here you can see the crack. About 1/2 an inch off the fader.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/BHQ6mz7RuKra7Xkt6

Sorry about the link. It wouldn't let me share it here.

[DC]

Doesn't look good. Is the back of the bow at the bottom of the picture?

[MattZA]

Yup the bottom is the back.

I've since sanded it down a lot, applied fibreglass drywall tape, and stuck that down with tb3.

Enough to keep it safe at 25#?

[DC]

I've never used FG tape. I would throw it away and start again. It's hard to help when I've no experience with the wood you're using but I would guess that the wood is no good or you bent it too hard. Were you using a scale?

[MattZA]

Were you using a scale?

No I wasn't. That's the problem. I was just going on feel, and what I assumed was 50# was probably more like 70#. The wood itself works well though, by the way. Garapa / Brazilian Ash. Definitely worth a look in.

I'll try and turn it into a proper light bow, and if it fails then it fails. I've got another identical board to try again.

[DC]

A five gallon bucket almost full of water weighs about 40#. Try something along those line. You may prefer cubic hectares per fortnight or somesuch

[bjrogg]

Not thinking that one is going to make it Matt. I've never used FG tape but really can't imagine it taking that much stress. I'd be looking for another piece of wood. I really couldn't tell from picture. Was it a board? Did the grain run off the back there? Was the tiller poor? Most stress is right out of handle. To relieve the stress it must be evenly spread over the entire limb. This is achieved by tapering the width and or the thickness to make a evenly bending bow. The two most important steps in bow building are a clean unviolated ring on the back, and probably even more importantly a well tillered belly. It can be heart breaking, but we need to learn from our failures as well as our successes. Never draw your bow to a heavier weight than you want it end up at. If it's bending to much in one area and then stiff just past it don't keep bending it. Put a pencil mark x at the bend(hinge) and don't remove wood from that area. Put pencil mark lines where it's not bending and scrape off the lines. Take your time. This is where you really become a bowyer.
Good Luck and keep on trying
Bjrogg