spliced yew suggestions, now sinew backed and retillering

[Pat B]

I have a set of yew billets that Matt cut splices for me at the Classic. Overall the length will be just a hair over 56" t/t and 1 1/2" wide the full length. The handle area is just over 1 1/4" thick and the sapwood is just under 1/2" thick throughout. I plan on sinew backing it. I'm looking for design suggestions. I'll probably kick the tips up to improve the string angle at my 26" draw and looking for 45-50#(mol).
 I guess my question is should I deflex the handle(not glued up yet) or keep it straight and/or add reflex throughout?

[High-Desert]

I've never sinew backed a yew bow with sapwood, but I have heard other guy mention it will cause the heartwood and sapwood to separate, but I've also heard otherwise. Do you have enough heartwood left if you remove the sapwood? If not, rawhide backing would be a a good option. But I guess that wasn't your question. You really don't need to deflex or reflex, unless you want to. 56" is plenty long for 26" @ 45-50lbs and a thin rawhide backing if your billets are clean.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Id deflex the splice and recurve the tips, Pat. I would chase all that sapwood off if you decide to sinew it. If not, just chase it down to about 3/16" thick. Thick sapwood and thin heartwood on yew bows can make them mushy and setty. I think it would easily handle your draw unbacked, especially deflexed.

[upstatenybowyer]

I glued deflex into the handle on a sinew-backed yew recently. I left sapwood on the handle only for thickness and chased the rest away. Shoots really nice.

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,63271.msg888379.html#msg888379

[leonwood]

I would do as Pearl Drums suggests: deflex the handle, tight recurves. Maybe strip the sapwood off the back but leave it on the recurves. Fade it out just before the recurves where you end the sinew.

[Bryce]

I would take the sapwood down to between 1/8”-1/4” ( or remove it altogether if you want)
Leave it 1 1/2” wide
Flip the tips, reverse brace and sinew that bad boy.

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,30667.0.html

[Aaron H]

I'm gonna have to agree with Bryce on this one. Just reverse brace after sinew and really take advantage of that sinew.

[Pat B]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Unfortunately I don't think I have enough heartwood, 3/8" or less in some areas.
 I think I will add some deflex in the handle and recurve the tips.
OK, another question...what glue for the spliced handle? I have Weldwood Plastic Resin, Old Urac(5-6 year in frig) or TB glue. Matt thought the TB would be fine. With an underlay at the splice to fill out the handle I'm thinking either the Weldwood or TB glue would be OK.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I would use the Weldwood first. I used TB3 on a spliced bow with a filled in handle and its fine.

[Pat B]

I've glued up the splice with some deflex in it and added an underlay riser.
...now my question is, and I normally don't think predetermining limb thickness is relative but in this case I only have 1/4" of heartwood on a small section of one edge about 12" from what will be the bottom limb tip. There is 3/8" of sapwood pretty consistently along the whole
56 1/2" length and the stave is 1 1/2" wide it's full length. I will add 2 to 3 layers of cow sinew with hide glue, reverse brace while sinewing and recurve the last 4" or so of the tips...actually now my question...is 1/4" of heartwood enough if I reduce the sapwood to 1/8" to 1/4" for the working portion of the limbs or can I get by with that thin area along one edge? I plan to get the limbs working right up to the handle area and I'm shooting for a bow of 45# to 55# when done. If I had consistent heartwood the full length it wouldn't be a problem but I'm too unfamiliar with yew to make that decision.   

[DC]

I remember back a while, Del made a sapwood only bow and it was quite weak. He added a very thin sliver of heartwood to the belly and the weight went way up. Moral-you don't need much heartwood. Look on Del's blog Feb/Mar  2016

[Pat B]

Thanks DC. I'll check it out.

[Pat B]

This is where she is now. 56" t/t pulling about 50#@26". I had planned to sinew back but I'm not sure now. I put about 25 arrows through her yesterday. She shoots pretty good nut not as good as I expected. I may still sinew back but will have to reduce the sapwood first or I won't be able to shoot because too strong.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Fantastic splice work Patty ol' boy. Boogers might even keep that beauty together

[Pat B]

I have to thank Matt for the splice. He cut them for me.
 The recurves were more pronounced but started pulling out. I steamed them in at full with of the limb and cut them down after to the width they are now. I added the horn underlays but they didn't hold as well as I had hoped.
I'll try to get a full draw pic later.