Author Topic: Tillering heat treated/reflexed bows  (Read 1603 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline DC

  • Member
  • Posts: 10,396
Tillering heat treated/reflexed bows
« on: May 27, 2018, 11:56:55 am »
I've found that when I'm tillering a bow that has had reflex heated into it that I don't know whether the bow is taking set or it's just some of the reflex pulling out. Do you think that exercising it to draw weight a couple of hundred times would pull out all the reflex that's going to come out? I would try it and see but a couple of hundred pulls just might do me in ;D ;D and it would be nice to hope it was all worth it.

Offline George Tsoukalas

  • Member
  • Posts: 9,425
    • Traditional and Primitive Archers
Re: Tillering heat treated/reflexed bows
« Reply #1 on: May 27, 2018, 01:12:34 pm »
It is the same thing ie..reflex pulling out =set.
I would exercise 10-20 times after wood removal sessions.
I take a 10-30 passes. Exercise.
Jawge
Set Happens!
If you ain't breakin' you ain't makin!

Offline Badger

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,124
Re: Tillering heat treated/reflexed bows
« Reply #2 on: May 27, 2018, 01:42:37 pm »
DC, that's a good question and I can't answer it. It has bugged me for years. I have been able to identify different types of set and I can say with some certainty that a big percentage of the induced reflex does not act like set as far as hysteresis is concerned. I was working on one this morning. Osage, moisture was a little high at 8.5% so I didn't want to go to far with it before it was a little drier. I heated in 2 1/2" of reflex, the stave was a little wanky. I ended up taking it out to 26". This is a reflex deflex with gentle recurves. I lost almost 2" of what I put in but it didn't act like set. To me the dead give away for a bow taking on set that will have high hysteresis is how much it returns after resting. This bow didn't have any return to it that I could pick up on without a ruler. I had also taken quite a bit off the belly. I went ahead and reheated it and gave the limbs their final shape. I usually do this in two stages anyway. 1st stage I want the limbs as straight as possible between the fades and the start of the curve because it gives me better visual reference when Tillering. Second stage I reflex it a bit mid limb and then go back and nock off the few pounds it adds,
« Last Edit: May 27, 2018, 01:58:57 pm by Badger »

Offline DC

  • Member
  • Posts: 10,396
Re: Tillering heat treated/reflexed bows
« Reply #3 on: May 27, 2018, 02:05:00 pm »
When you heat it the second time do you do a full heat treat or just enough to get the shape you want?

Offline Badger

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,124
Re: Tillering heat treated/reflexed bows
« Reply #4 on: May 27, 2018, 03:21:27 pm »
  This particular one more of a full heat treat, a little bit of toasting. I seldom go for a full heat treat. Not much wood will be coming off the second time so it usually holds a lot better.

Offline bradsmith2010

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,187
Re: Tillering heat treated/reflexed bows
« Reply #5 on: May 28, 2018, 12:05:15 pm »
I want to try that the next,, time,, thanks for expaining your second heat treat,, )P(

Offline Bob Barnes

  • Member
  • Posts: 942
Re: Tillering heat treated/reflexed bows
« Reply #6 on: May 28, 2018, 08:56:26 pm »
I've always harvested mulberry and osage in the winter, and chased a ring for the back, but read where several guys left a bit of 'good' sapwood on their mulberry bows.
Seems like common sense isn't very common any more...