Edge grain and sinew?

[Mesophilic]

I was admiring DC's maple/yew edge grain and realized I have been sitting on a piece of yew that could be an edge grain bow, too.  It was the heartwood sawed off of a stave, and I can't bear throwing away wood that might be useful. 

It warped to a natural reflex along the stave to one side so sfter DC's thread I've decided to try some edge grain work.

Is sinew backing edge grain something that would work well?  Maybe work?  Or should I just go for maple like DC?  I also have a couple of hickory backing strips if that marries well with yew heart wood.

[Bryce]

I would suggest bamboo. Yew and boo is such a saweeet! Combo
My next choice would be maple then Oregon white oak and lastly hickory
All will make a great shooter. But use what you have and go with what you already have and jump in.
Hickory back that stick

[BowEd]

Upside Aaron is the bow will be shootable sooner with a wood or bamboo backing too.

[Mesophilic]

This will be a more long term completion, on account of moving in a couple of months.  I see your points, though, and  since I'm stepping out of my comfort zone I'll go ahead and follow the recommendations and wood back it.

Just for kicks though,  as I was pondering,  would sinew most likely twist,  or otherwise skew, the limb tip alignment?  After I posted the original question I got to thinking about the reflex pulling aspects of sinew.  When it does pull the reflex would it tend to favor the weaker side more on an edge grain bow than a regular one? I was thinking it could probably make quite a mess of the tip alignment.

[BowEd]

Not if the sinew is put on evenly on both limbs and the limbs are both flat planed in line with each other.If a twist was there to begin with and not taken out before applying the sinew then yes it will enhance that twist and tip alignment.
Might sound sketchy and difficult but it's really not.

[Stick Bender]

I know its been said edge grained wood is more unstable latterly but it has not been my exsperience with it , like Ed said if every thing is right parallel plans then there both the same , with any type of lam bow the more right it is from the start the easeier it is to finish ,like Ed says the devil is in the details ,I like to call it internal tiller , plus by doing it that way you put less stress on the materials ! less set !

[BowEd]

Aaron.....The more reflex the more critical it is especially with string contact recurves.In line lateral stability is needed with these on the recurved tips.Recurves most times are always a little more work making the first few bows.A straight tipped bow with less reflex it is not as critical.Lateral stability is easier to maintain with them.A little prop twist will still make a good shooter.
These things are true with wood backed bows as well as sinew backed bows.Like Ritch said getting the limbs flat planed with each other in the beginning solves all these problems.