Well it's been pleasant enough weather here to get this doe shot last winter made into some usable rawhide.First when skinning deer it's best to pull the hide off as much as possible to avoid and knife slits which can turn into holes.In ideal conditions this process can be done from sunrise to sunset fairly easily.Even brained and rope dry too.Anyway I'll let the sequenced pictures show the process while commenting here first and along the way about things that make this process easier.
Using nylon string such as parachute cord or the like is easier.It does'nt knot up so quickly and knots can come out easier by hand.Cutting lengths of around 25' work the best and fastest since time is of the essence while lacing it in.Depending on the weather I usually do this in the shade to prevent premature drying.Centering the hide first.Using a sharp knife cut holes around 4" apart from each other as much as an inch in from the edge all the way around the hide.Then lacing in fairly loosely first centered then retightened later to be fleshed with the scraper.While fleshing it can be tightened more also.Leaving a little extra amount of flesh on hide while skinning will make fleshing easier.Membrane and all come off.
After fleshing this paticular doe hide was dry enough to dehair the next day.The thinner or younger or smaller the hide the sooner it will dry.After dehairing it can be cut out to be cut to any number of projects desired.This doe hide will be used for bows and a drum I made.
The stretching frame made from osage saplngs.
Tools used....Elk or Siouw name for animal the [wapati or waterhorse] antler fleshing tool or the Siouw name for it the wahyenta[not sure of spelling]and a pocket knife.
Center hide in frame.
Begin lacing in at the top or neck.
Centered nicely for maximum stretch.You want a big enough frame to get maximum stretch on your hide.
Retightened with a good stretch on it.
Beginning of fleshing.
At this stage the hide can become looser in frame because of the prodding and scraping while fleshing.Retightening it helps for further clean fleshing to be done and puts a very good stretch on your rawhide also.
All finished fleshing.
Left to dry before dehairing.
Dehairing taking epidermis off along with the hair.It'll come off in 1/4" wide strips depending on width of scraper.Too wide of scraper to speed things up will not work very well though.Let the sharpness of the scraper do the work.There's a learning curve doing this task.Adjusting for enough pressure to dehair but not puncture.Especially in flank areas which can be sanded lightly if too thin also to remove epidermis and hair.Be aware of old scars.Dehair with the grain on those not sideways as it can catch and puncture a hole also.This might seem like a lot to look out for but with practice it becomes second nature and no problem.This makes for very thin useful rawhide for bow backings.
I like to begin at the top and go with the grain dehairing.If the leather is dry in the neck area it is dry everywhere else.It can be dehaired other directions if needed like sideways etc.
Finished hide here.It's a different hide but end product is the same.I just forgot to take a pic of the current one finished.This hide as is can be used for rawhide or be brain tanned[that's another subject though].
I like to give both sides of rawhide a good sanding with at least 80 grit.Used to do this by hand.I have an orbital sander now which makes it a bit faster.I prefer 60 grit while laced in the frame.A tip here...A person can set the framed hide so the sun shines though it.A person can see then absolutely for sure that all of the epidermis is removed,if you are going to brain tan it.
Hide cut out easily with a pocket knife.There is always a little waste yet[nothing to worry about] but much of that can be used for hide glue also.
Hide ready to be stored or used for whatever your project might be.
Finished raw hide on current hide ended up being around 11 square feet.About normal for a white tail doe from around here.It will keep indefinitely as is.I usually give it a light spray of bug killer to keep the bugs away and it works.
This other paticular hide I brain tanned and smoked.
The other hide I cut up into 2" wide 3' long strips for bow backings and 2 big circular pieces for a drum.Any scrap pieces of rawhide or sinew scraps I keep for sinew and hide glue.
