hickory self bow handle help

[cbates1994]

Hey guys,
    I have a hickory log i split and now the dimensions of the handle got me....stumped  lol. I read a lot of people that offset the handle to make the arrow center of the bow and others just make the self bow completely symmetrical. I would like to know what all you guys do with handles. currently i was thinking stiff handle and 2 in fades ntn 72 inches.

   Thanks for the insight guys!

[George Tsoukalas]

I usually make them 1.25 to 1/38" wide and 1.5" thick. Fades are 1.5". More on my site. Jawge

http://traditionalarchery101.com

[Ryan Jacob]

72 inches... how long is your draw, or is that just so you have wiggle room?

[cbates1994]

I usually make them 1.25 to 1/38" wide and 1.5" thick. Fades are 1.5". More on my site. Jawge

http://traditionalarchery101.com

thanks for that link! thats definitely helpful. I'm curious on when to have the bow have an offset handle or centered one. other build alongs have the handle smack dab in the middle. is that a "wrong" way of doing it?

[cbates1994]

72 inches... how long is your draw, or is that just so you have wiggle room?

30 inches I would say

[Eric Krewson]

I have been teaching my nephew how to make bows, he just finished a hickory bow. I like to make bulbus locator handles on my bows. He has a huge hand so we made the handle 4 1/2" long, 2 3/4" fades, abut 1" wide at the arrow pass. We added the walnut for a little bling.

[George Tsoukalas]

Interestingly, I first started with a centered handle. I would measure 2" on ether side of center and then measure out the fades as discussed above. The advantage is you can turn the bow around to get better tuning. I've had to do that once or twice.

I have also used  a slightly offset handle (and I do like this style) as favored by Al Herron and was described in my site where the fades are adjusted to make for same length limbs.

http://traditionalarchery101.com/handlestyles.html

Jawge

[Springbuck]

You really can do it either way, but for a stiff-handled bpw.......

 I usually find the exact middle of the stave and draw a line.  I grip the bow, placing that line between my pointer and middle finger, and mark where my fore knuckle and pinky knuckle are.  That's the handle.  Above the handle, I mark out two fingers wide for the arrow to pass, and to see around.  Then add the length of the fades.

Once I fiddle this in, the grip is about 1-1.5" below center, but from fade to fade is pretty balanced out.  The physical middle of the bow hits the pad at the base of my thumb when drawn, and the arrow is just above that.  The fingers on the string are just BARELY higher than exactly in line with the base of the thumb .

[DC]

I never thought of using my hand to measure the handle, go figure. Great idea. It's amazing what you "don't" think of.

[Bayou Ben]

That's pretty much how I do it now, Springbuck.  It just makes sense to me that the closer to center you hold and draw the bow the better it will be balanced.  I like to have the middle of the pressure point of the bow hand as well as the middle of the pressure point of the draw hand lined up as close to the physical middle of the bow as possible.  Then lay out the arrow pass and fades around that.   

[Dances with squirrels]

That's a very good way to lay out a bow, Bayou Ben. It offers many benefits from tillering, and static and dynamic balance perspectives. It makes it easier to get a bow balanced during the draw, keep it balanced, less likely for the tiller to shift, so no need to flip them end for end. In fact, I've never had to do that.

[Bryce]

For my 6’ longbows the arrow pass is 1” above center, and 1/2”-3/4” wide. fades are 4” long. Nocks 1” from the ends.

[cbates1994]

Thanks so much for all the advice! I'll go with centering the handle then just so tillering is a bit easier. Sorry for the late response My daughter was born on the 3rd! Haven't been wanting to go out and work on it Since then lol

[DC]

One of the only good excuses Congrats!

[cbates1994]

I have been teaching my nephew how to make bows, he just finished a hickory bow. I like to make bulbus locator handles on my bows. He has a huge hand so we made the handle 4 1/2" long, 2 3/4" fades, abut 1" wide at the arrow pass. We added the walnut for a little bling.

question about that arrow rest: how do you safely cut a rest in?