Finally managed to bend tips - further guidance needed

[FilipT]

I renamed this thread from previous one how I failed making my first recurve. For the second attempt I decided to use deflexed hazel bend through handle longbow. Yes, you read right, I am using deflexed bow. It has not yet been on tiller tree and since it has deflex I thought I could recurve the tips so the bow basically becomes reflex-deflex bow. Here are the pictures, tomorrow I will start with the tillering.

Bow viewed from back, not the deflexed curve


Belly up


Bow resting on the side


Another picture from the side, not the deflex curve

[bushboy]

Here's how I straighten out twists in the tips.it really doesn't take much heat to make a adjustment .that said I work almost exclusively with elm.

[FilipT]

Luckily bow is not twisted in any way and I want to preserve that deflexed shape. Btw, anyone know if hazel responds to heat gun? I tried dry heat on black locust flatbow I mentioned in this thread and it bent without effort. I think it is in that way BL same as osage.

[Badger]

  I agree with Pat, way too stiff in the  inner limbs. Just fixing that will make a huge difference in your string angle and everything else.

[simk]

hazel really likes the heat gun too. cheers

[FilipT]

hazel really likes the heat gun too. cheers

Really? Then I am lucky guy. Anybody have advice when should I introduce recurves, I mean at what draw length? I will start tillering in a couple of hours.

[FilipT]

  I agree with Pat, way too stiff in the  inner limbs. Just fixing that will make a huge difference in your string angle and everything else.

Thanks Badger, although bow you are talking about is for some time now in the fireplace haha. Anyway, I will know for the future what to do.

[PatM]

hazel really likes the heat gun too. cheers

Really? Then I am lucky guy. Anybody have advice when should I introduce recurves, I mean at what draw length? I will start tillering in a couple of hours.

Before you start tillering.  Some like to tiller the bow and then bend in the curves but sometimes it's better to start the bow off being its final design.

[FilipT]

That is an interesting idea, I must admit every time I see that people introduce recurves at 20" or so. Do you think maybe I could go for recurves when I get to brace height, instead of just at beginning or near end of tillering?

[PatM]

No, put them in right away.  You're already a bit whippy looking on this one too. 

[JNystrom]

Plenty of advice here so you're good.
What I have learned from recurves, wider limbs and wider recurves make things a lot easier. Less limb twisting and more successfull bows. Also helps the bow tolerate the added stress from reflex.

[FilipT]

When I introduced heat, I got good bend, but not on the tips. One tip cracked, and other one broke almost completely. Decided to not continue working on it. Even if I pike the bow, it would be shorter, I would have to make a whole lot a things on the wood. Since I have a lot of staves on attic, why bother further with it.

[PatM]

This one is ruined too?

[JNystrom]

I recommend boiling for recurves.

[FilipT]

Yes, ruined. JNystrom, I think I will go for boiling next time on whitewoods. But I think black locust might be best done with dry heat, it just becomes like a dough!