String nock overlay (bow tips) question

[Mark Russell]

I've done some searching, and most of what I found is back from 2007 with the "photobucket" logo - so I figured I'd ask.

I'm working on my first stave bow from elm and would like to put deer antler overlays on the tips.  I'm ready to start tillering and it seems smarter to tiller first and put the tips on later.  There's no sense in doing the tips first in case I break it - so I would think.

1. Is this correct thinking?
2. Do I cut "thin" string grooves to tiller and file them smooth later for the antlers?
3. Seems CA glue & TB3 are fairly popular choices for attaching them -yes/no?

Thanks - Mark

[High-Desert]

I've done it both ways. I used to wait, just in case my bow breaks,  I didn't waste time, but I find it more advantageous to do them before I put grooves in because the glue line looks more clean when the grooves are cut together. But either way works. Overlays are quick and easy either way. I do wait to fully shape them though until I'm done tillering.
For glue, I've only used TB II and III. Within an hour I can start cutting grooves.

[DC]

They aren't wasted if the bow breaks. Cut them off carefully, sand them smooth and use them again on the next bow. If the next bow is a contrasting wood leave a bit of the old bow on the tips for that "layered" look. People will think you planned it that way.
Or, leave the tips a bit wide and cut the temp grooves in the wood that will be removed.

[Mark Russell]

I never thought about being able to "re-use" them if the bow breaks - that's a good idea.  I agree too that the glue lines and string grooves would look better if done all in one shot.  I guess that's why we ask questions - Thanks guys.

[Pat B]

Leave the tips wide(3/4"-1") and use a chain saw file and file the string groove on the sides at about 45 degree angle. I usually put a mark at 3/4" on the back and 1" on the belly and cut the groove there.

[Springbuck]

  I second Pat's suggestion.  Sometimes I can't plan like that, but most bows are going to be stiff for the last few inches, regardless.  Leave em a little wide, cut side nocks to tiller and go ahead.

  One other thing I HAVE done, but haven't for a whil,e is to go ahead and make the tips narrow, close to finished dimensions, and whittle them to points, like in the TBB where Baker describes tied on nocks, or the little wrapped nocks "like a Lifesaver".  Taper to a point from the belly, leaving the back intact, and you'll have enough wood to grind the back flat to apply nock overlays.

[Msturm]

When I was taught to build bows, I was scolded for waiting till the end to put tip overlays on. I was told if you make a bow look like a bow early on its more likely going to be willing to become a bow.


I  do it both ways and often I decide that Self nocks are better looking.

Msturm

[BowEd]

Putting overlays on more extreme set back hooks or recurves makes it easier for the string to stay on for me with the groove across the back.I usually always will put overlays on before tillering on those kind of bows.Straight tipped limbs it's not so neccessary.That's just me though.

[Mark Russell]

Msturm - good point.  Thanks for all the input everyone.

[Pat B]

I do not add any extras to a bow until at least first brace. That's also why I leave the limb tips wide. If the string tracks to one side or the other wood can be removed to align the string and you can't really tell how the string tracks until you brace it.

[Mark Russell]

Pat, that's a good argument for leaving the tips wide to start with.  That sure would seem to make string tracking easier.  I'll have to try that in the future - I've already got them narrowed down now.  Thanks for the tip though.

[Pat B]

Mark, I do the same with the handle area. You don't need finished tips or handle to tiller a bow and it's nice to have that extra wood to help make adjustments.

[Mark Russell]

Pat, it sounds like you file the grooves just on the sides and leave the back “intact” for tillering. Is that correct or do you file the groove across the back also?