TILLERING FROM INTENDED DRAW WEIGHT EARLY ON

[jeffp51]

I usually do it like George too. The first thing that starts to move are the fades-so I stop working them immediately and concentrate on the tips and work my way back to the fades-so that I have a more elliptical tiller-and less set there, as per the tbb mantra (no set at roots, little set mid-limb, stiffer at the tips).

[kbear]

"Let the weight pull you out to full draw while you tweak the limbs into the correct bend"

Thankyou Springbuck.

Succinct. That right there is the tillering mantra

[Springbuck]

  I can hit any tiller I want the way I do it, though.   

[Selfbowman]

Been doing it all wrong. I've  always tried to make them bend even from the get go to floor tiller. . Then brace it and correct it from there.working into my desired weight. Maybe that's why I get 1-1/2 set. Arvin

[Badger]

   Arvin, lots of ways to skin a cat. We post our favorite current method which might change 6 months from now. I just switched over to my current method a couple of years ago. We can get set with any method, the idea is if we are getting set too early or too much set we either find places on the limb we can get more bend or lower our expectations. Monitoring the condition of the wood throughout the process regardless of what process we use is the key here. The only issue I see with tillering below full draw weight is that once full weight is applied the limbs can suddenly change. 

[Springbuck]

Arvin, I mean, straight stave bow, 1-1/2" set isn't actually that bad.   I like less than an inch better.  I had a guy proudly bring me a full 1:1 ratio red oak board longbow about 75" long to inspect that had an HONEST 6" plus of set.