Hawkdancer, looking a bit better, but........what is your intended draw weight?
Do you understand what PearlDrums and Badger were trying to say? Floor tillering is its own skill, and I didn't get it at first, but ESPECIALLY when drawn on a tree, NEVER pull the bow past the intended draw weight. If you want a 50 lb bow, DON"T PULL IT TO 85 LBS! Attach your longstring and ONLY exert 55Lbs of pressure on that string.
If that bends the limbs ONE INCH, fine! Make whatever adjustments you can see, and/or lighten the limb, but don't pull it farther or harder. If that's not enough bend to help you see anything, keep lightening the limbs SLOWLY until you CAN see. If you don't do this, your bow will suck. It'll take lots of set.
Lots of guys use a spring scale for this. I have an old set of barbell weights I can stack on a bar, the bar has a hook for the string, and my pulley is installed ABOVE my tree so I can stand back and watch the weights pull the string.
Next, I recommend getting a rasp to go with your scraper. One methodical way to remove enough, but not too much, wood is to take the whole belly and mark it up with crayon or pencil. Then RASP off all the pencil. Then SCRAPE off all the rasp marks. Then check for any high or uneven spots. Then check the bow on the tree. Each time you do this sequence will remove a couple pounds of weight. It sounds like just scraping is slow going for you.
Once your limbs are moving 3-4" at the 50 lb pull, you will be able to see better what needs correction. Mark what is stiff, and what is bending. Like before, color in the stiff spots, rasp the pencil away, scrape the rasp marks smooth, feel for high spots or uneven spots, and check it on the tree.
