Maple Mollegabet 45# @ 28", 66" ntn; finished pics page 2.

[Springbuck]

  I see.     Overbuild if you can, back it if you must.  Good luck.

[Julian]

I've gotten the bow tillered to 40# at 24" and I'd like a little insight into why I see such a difference between these two pictures:



Here I am drawing around 24" in the hand



And here's the bow at 24" on the stick.

The first pic looks pretty good to me, but in the second pic it looks like the left limb is a bit stiff, and that the top limb is almost hinging out of the fades.

thoughts?

[Del the cat]

If you look at the live draw (top pic) you are taking the pressure on the heel of your hand and it looks fine.
In the second pic you are supporting the bow where the web of finger and thumb would be.
The string must also be pulled from where your two main fingers will be pulling, otherwise it gives a false picture of the tiller.
With those shaped grips you sometimes need a little block of cork or rolled up rubber etc between the grip and the tiller block to get the bow to sit right (as it would in the hand).
Del

[Julian]

If you look at the live draw (top pic) you are taking the pressure on the heel of your hand and it looks fine.
In the second pic you are supporting the bow where the web of finger and thumb would be.
The string must also be pulled from where your two main fingers will be pulling, otherwise it gives a false picture of the tiller.
With those shaped grips you sometimes need a little block of cork or rolled up rubber etc between the grip and the tiller block to get the bow to sit right (as it would in the hand).
Del

Thanks Del, that makes sense.

[burchett.donald]

Julian,
            What counts is bow in hand...You look balanced in the first picture...Set your "nock point" and pull from there and take a second look...Your draw hand looks low...JMHO, could be camera angle though...I agree with Del on low heel pressure also...
                                                                                                                                   
                                                                                                                                         Don
                                                                                                             

[Julian]

Here's my third video on this bow.

You can see me pulling it in its current state near the end, that's where I took the still from.

https://youtu.be/td2MZiQIBwM?t=2m11s

let me know what you think; I'm very new to this.

[BowEd]

Nice work Julian.Like said changing position of hands affects tiller.Taking it slow is the key like your doing.Unbracing at times to check for set also.Sounds about right poundage for maple but did'nt get the length this bow was.A pulley system where you can stand back and look could help you.Right on that post your using in fact.
Good advise prior too.Looks like you got a shooter.

[Knoll]

Looking good.
Put 30-40 arrows through it. Then full draw vids again, maybe with arrow.
If you can, locate camera in line with your body and at belt/chest height.
Congrats!

[Julian]

Sounds about right poundage for maple but did'nt get the length this bow was.

It's 67" t2t

[Springbuck]

  That's pretty decent poundage for such a narrow maple bow.  You work pretty fast and it looks like you have a pretty good eye for this.

[Julian]

  That's pretty decent poundage for such a narrow maple bow.  You work pretty fast and it looks like you have a pretty good eye for this.

Thanks!

The bow took more set than I would like, probably 2.5", which I'm chalking up to the narrow limbs, but I don't mind.

[Julian]

Here's another video:


https://youtu.be/1oDrhh6QxUU


Since then I've finished the bow and put on the handle, wrapped the tip transitions etc. I'll take some photos and put them here :~)

[Julian]

Braced



Handle



Unbraced



More handle detail

[Swampman]

Nice work Julian.  That looks like a great bow. 

[simk]

Nice & clean Bow! What material is the backing-strip and what's the poundage?