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1930's turkish-type flightbows

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PatM:
Some but not all of them. Besides an overdraw would put most of those little bows in the mushy zone that you're always cautioning against.

JNystrom:
Oh my! Situation calls for testing... I think I know the bow you are talking about PatM, is it this one? https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/paleoplanet69529/1930-s-inspired-flight-bow-t55475.html Latest comment from BrunoB says 409 yards. Which is plenty anyway!

The profile i'm talking about isn't that "edgy" profile, but more of a letter C like a proper hornbow, without the horn belly. Anyway, all that era bows are really interesting, since I don't see them anywhere and to my understanding where the most successful profiles!
Those C-profile bows were shot in overdraw division too, i think.

I don't agree sinew is any slower. And I don't know who agrees or doesn't agree, but... my experiences with bows heavily sinewed is that they are completely opposite of sluggish or slow. Off course this demands reflex and proper exploit of materials, but as you can see from those many old-timers bows, the sinew went up to the recurves! So they were quite the opposite to think it's necessary to cut weight down to minimum.

Who likes hysteresis and set, but off course theres more into it, right? I like to keep my all bows understressed and especially flight bows, just because this has proven to be a good choice in my short history of bow making. Now I would be quite interested to push the limits with these radical profiles.

I've just started my first hornbow and the sizing of core and horns, 20 layers of glue on both. If you compare making a turkish flight bow to this kind of wood-sinew composite, skipping the horn belly makes bow building a breeze.

PatM:
Yes. I am also lumping all of those short recurves in together when made of the same materials.  Not just the ones that are purely Turkish in shape,

 They were short and if overdrawn were certainly being severely and almost certainly overly stressed.

Badger:

--- Quote from: PatM on March 27, 2018, 10:55:29 am ---Some but not all of them. Besides an overdraw would put most of those little bows in the mushy zone that you're always cautioning against.

--- End quote ---

Pat, it just depends what the bow is designed to pull, sinew allows for a lot of extra draw with less stress. I don't think dry sinew has any more hysteresis  than wood but not really sure.

PatM:

--- Quote from: JNystrom on March 22, 2018, 05:39:12 pm ---Oh! Sinew backed bows are lot of fun, so definitely you should try it. Actually that osage recurve that I just posted here was deflexed in the handle, then sinew backed. Holds it's profile quite nicely, so it might actually be really understressed.

About these turkish bows made of sinew backed osage, i'm surprised this profile worked without horn. Wouldn't even come to my mind building a hornbow amount of reflex on wood-sinew bow. I guess osage is tough enough, and I think those bows had quite longer bending sections than a proper turkish one. I don't have any brace/draw picture of those bows, so hard to say for sure. I wish I had some old ye sylvan archer magazines... I found you could buy those magazines from internet for 40-80 dollars a piece.

--- End quote ---

    Those prices are generally for a bound set of volumes from a specific year.  Not sure how often it came out each year though or how large each copy is.

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