Yew bow build, short and wide, stiff handle, reflex/deflex limbs

[NorthHeart]

This will be my 4th Yew bow.  Originally i wanted it to be a recurve but i don't think i have enough reflex at the tips for this to end up happening when its braced.  Its 54" long and the limbs are 1-7/8" wide.  Im trying to figure out what the best width profile will be, meaning where to narrow the limbs so its not parallel all the way down.  I was also thinking a flat cross section and working limbs all the way to the tips.  I still have plenty thickness to go either way.  What do yall think? 

[NorthHeart]

There was one area where a twig like growth protruded on the back, with little spots around it.  Reminded me of the pin knots on Osage where the thorns are.  but i haven't seen enough Yew to be familiar with this.  Knowing i was gonna rawhide back it i decided to cut right through it, you can see where it left brown beneath.  With it being in the center of the limb i don't think i should worry.  But when i heated it (i used heat gun and oil) bubbles came out making me think the little spots are hollow, so i wonder if i should let thin CA glue penetrate down in on the back and belly in this area?

[Badger]

  Thats a nice looking bow, I would smooth out the transition area near the tips a bit more and call it good. If you take advantage of that parallel limb profile you will need to get a slightly increasing bend as it nears the transition area. I think I would keep the tips stiffer. Short bows allready have a tendency to stack and you don't pick up much bend in that area anyway. You have enough width you shouldn't need it.

[Del the cat]

What draw weight and length are you after?
Del

[NorthHeart]

Thanks for the advice Badger.  Del- perhaps a max draw of 55# @ 24", so that its in the high 40's low 50's at my short draw of around 22-23". 

[Almosetx]

It is good that we are involved in the question that came up.

[NorthHeart]

Big typo on my part.  I previously stated the length to be 48"...it is actually 54" long.

[simk]

A really nice piece of wood you have there - with my limited expierience I would do parallel limbs until the reflex starts and then do it pyramidal to the tips.

How did you make the deflex/reflex curves? Steam? Dry heat?

Cheers

[Del the cat]

Big typo on my part.  I previously stated the length to be 48"...it is actually 54" long.

... and... relax...
Del

[Redhand]

You could start tapering your time tips 6 inches back.

[NorthHeart]

A really nice piece of wood you have there - with my limited expierience I would do parallel limbs until the reflex starts and then do it pyramidal to the tips.

How did you make the deflex/reflex curves? Steam? Dry heat?

Cheers

Gear oil and a heat gun.  I start at the handle and apply clamps outwards towards the limb tips.  This stave required a few heat sessions.  The weighted bucket came last, good for fixing a slight twist in one limb.

[Springbuck]

  My mind was scrambling for what I would do, until you said 24" draw! 

  Standard R/D stuff in that case.   Get SOME limb movement in the deflexed portion, but not enough to take set.  Get most of the bend from the middle 50% of each limb, and stiffen up toward the tips.  Don't get rid of too much width too early along the limb.  Tiller and stability, not tip weight, are your biggest concerns with this bow.

Wish I knew more about the little knot area.  I fill stuff like that with Minwax Wood Hardener and a syringe and hope for the best.

[NorthHeart]

Springbuck-yep im a shorty on the draw length!  When you refer to getting most my bend from the middle 50% are you referring to where the deflex is at is lowest point?

[NorthHeart]

I started soaking my rawhide and realized that more heat corrections were needed in order to get the string to align with the handle.  I went a bit to far the first time, so took it back just a bit.  The pics show with a laser level how the string should split the center of the handle nicely now.  One limb is still a bit off as it has a curve mid length, but im at that point where i have to decide when to call it good.  Sometimes when you fix one thing another goes a bit out of wack.  You chase perfection back and forth but the wood can only take being heated so many times in my opinion before something starts to give and you wish you would have left well enough alone.  What do yall think?

[Redhand]

I would get it close and call it good, like you said chasing perfection and something is bound to give.