Okay, here's the big disclaimer. THIS IS WHAT WORKS FOR ME. Others may agree/disagree and that's okay.
Considering the 28" draw you described on a 4" stiff handle with 4" of fades - Doubling 28 + the 8-inches of non-working fades = 64". This to me is the shortest stiff handled bow I would make to achieve a 28" draw. Of course, the tiller has to be close to flawless; leaving no "wiggle" room at 64". That is for a NON-sinew backed bow.
For the same draw (28) in a bendy handle design, I simply double the 28" equaling then 56" as the shortest bow I would make to achieve a 28" draw. Again, this is for a NON-sinew backed bow.
When I build a bow that will be sinew backed, and if it is to have a non-working (stiff) handle section, I'd eliminate the 4 + 4 = 8 inches from the equation. In other words, a 56" stiff handled bow will draw 28" if it is sinew backed, properly. Unless I am experimenting or challenging myself or the wood, I would consider 56" as the shortest I would make the bow considering a 28-inch draw length. For a bendy handle bow that is sinew backed I use 52" as my shortest.
For both the sinew backed bows, keep in mind that the string angle at full draw can be close to or exceeding 90 degrees. Beyond 90 degrees, I fear the string loop(s) slipping off the nocks and causing a catastrophic event. To help with this, I always flip the tips a bit to compensate.
I'm also speaking of my experience with sinew backing osage as the bow wood. I don't waste much of my time with other wood species except maybe yew.
Shortest, isn't always best. The shorter the bow, the more stress on the limbs. Fun yes, but expect to develop string follow and/or a shorter life expectancy.