Author Topic: Cutting Backing  (Read 1796 times)

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Offline Dances with squirrels

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Re: Cutting Backing
« Reply #15 on: February 22, 2018, 05:10:25 am »
I wouldn't do it on a tablesaw. A properly setup bandsaw is the ticket. I've cut a bunch of backing strips, and lams for glass bows, trilams, you name it. I use a 14" Craftsman bandsaw. The bandsaw guide is a Carter bearing setup, and I use a Kreg precision fence with a resaw attachment. That stuff is relatively inexpensive and worth the cost if your going to make more than a bow or two. I can slice lams off rather nicely with it.

BUT, not a single piece of wood comes off of the bandsaw ready to glue up, in my opinion. It's just not accurate enough, and neither a tablesaw or bandsaw blade leaves an appropriate gluing surface. It all goes to the thickness sander from there, which removes all saw marks, levels it, trues it up across its width, consistent thickness all over, tapers it if need be, and leaves a perfect gluing surface.
Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline DC

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Re: Cutting Backing
« Reply #16 on: February 22, 2018, 04:38:08 pm »
One thickness sander. A man with a metal lathe and a decent collection of junk can cobble up just about anything. I've got a few more passes but the two pieces are within about .003" of each other. it's a good thing that window was there :D

Offline Springbuck

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Re: Cutting Backing
« Reply #17 on: February 22, 2018, 04:47:19 pm »
Slick move, DC!

Remind me to show you guys my lamination thicknesser/finisher/taper-er.  So good, so low-tech.

I do it on a tablesaw because I have one handy and set up.  I still haven't learned how to tune the bandsaw well enough to get long, straight cuts from thicker boards.