Author Topic: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas  (Read 95178 times)

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Offline hoosierf

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #45 on: March 25, 2018, 01:57:08 pm »
Cool, cool, cool!

Offline burchett.donald

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #46 on: March 25, 2018, 06:51:22 pm »
   Enjoying this build...Out of my league, but learning... (-P
                                                                                          Don
Genesis 27:3 Now therefore take, I pray thee, thy weapons, thy quiver and thy bow, and go out to the field, and take me some venison;

Offline Parnell

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #47 on: March 27, 2018, 09:13:25 am »
Great thread.
1’—>1’

Offline Redhand

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #48 on: March 27, 2018, 04:02:57 pm »
Great progress 240!
These bows take a lot of time to build.
Northern Ute

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #49 on: March 29, 2018, 10:44:05 pm »
Thanks for the comments guys.  I'm glad y'all are getting as much out of this thread as i am by making it. :)

Now comes the first part that has really given me some grief, getting the splices right so that each limb mates up properly to the other.  Not to make anyone shy away from this, and if your experienced with splices this might not be anything new to you.  Both limbs should butt up flat against one another, but i went a bit too deep on one horn making it convex as opposed to flat.  It was then that i heard the dreaded words of Tom Lucas..."oh my"...followed up by the worse yet "my, my, my" and its at this point that one realizes they have wandered far astray from the path.  Luckily for me there was enough material so that my mistake was fixable by the master.  Yes, again i am humbled.

Note-i am not sure how else to explain this, but you will be working down one angle of your splice on the "belly side" of one limb and on the "back side" of the other.  Remember, your inside of the horn is the back of the bow which will be covered with sinew.  The outside part of the horn is the belly.  Always keep this in the back of your mind, as its easy to get confused as your building your bow.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2018, 12:06:22 am by 240m3srt »

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #50 on: March 29, 2018, 10:57:01 pm »
I want to pause a minute and really make a point.  The splice was the first step that made me really slow down and pay attention more than ever, especially after my close call.  Your splices must be good, or don't continue further until they are. When viewed from either side of the limb they must be even, not perfect but very close.  Some small gap or "daylight" is ok, but only just a little bit, as the hide glue will fill this area when its clamped.  Also, on my second bow i found it much easier to do the rough work by marking the horn and then laying it on a belt sander with a medium grit belt and applying pressure slowly and cautiously, checking my work frequently. Once you realize the spot where you need to remove material to close the gap, apply pressure only to that area.  Or, clamp it in a vice and use a file or rasp for the fine fitment work.

If you elect to use a sanding belt, remember to rough up the surface with a ferrier's rasp or similar so it is not too smooth...this way the hide glue will stick.  Tom calls this "giving it tooth".
« Last Edit: March 29, 2018, 11:23:10 pm by 240m3srt »

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #51 on: March 29, 2018, 11:09:20 pm »
Once your splice job mates up nicely the next step is to splice the handle together with hide glue.  Tom uses a double boiler so that the glue doesn't burn.  He also only used distilled or bottled water, never tap.  Here is one part where i was too slow to capture a proper picture.  He simply dips the one horn in at one splice surface(yes it drips messily down the other side, no worries), then he dips his bare hand in the glue and quickly coats the other side...and fastens them together with 3 small C-clamps.  We use light pressure so that the hide glue just barely squeezes out.  Do not use more pressure than just enough to hold them snugly together or you risk squeezing out too much glue.  Within the time it takes to do this(30 sec to a minute) the glue is already starting to gel and harden up, Tom says this is ok.  After you glue it up use a stick or your hand to spread more glue along all 4 side edge seams.  Let it dry for a day.

Note-the first pic is without glue, use your small clamps to see ahead of time how its gonna fit together BEFORE you glue it up.

« Last Edit: March 30, 2018, 12:14:57 am by 240m3srt »

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #52 on: March 29, 2018, 11:45:55 pm »
Now its starting to look like a bow!  Note the natural deflex shape, ohh so pretty.  Tom assures me that by the time the sinew is added it will attempt to pull it back into reflex, but that comes later.  Be careful, don't flex that center section just yet, we still need to add a horn plate on the belly side only in order to reinforce it, then we will wrap the entire handle area with sinew.  In order to make your belly handle piece, you need a flat piece of scrap horn.  Tom uses curved scrap from the side of the horn we cut at the beginning, heats it by holding it it 2-3" over the electric stove while constantly flipping it, and then clamps it between two 2x6's in a vice until its flattened completely out.  I did not witness this part, he already had a few done this way.  Cut your handle piece roughly to the dimensions of the bow (approx 1.5"x 4.25") to be safe.

Then the work begins.  You have to work down the now glued-up handle section of your horn bow in a concave manner naturally following the contour of the belly.  This one is hard for me to explain, so hopefully my pics can.  Then you make the horn plate convex to mate up to it.  Hold it up to a window or something light behind it to check the gap, remember only a little light or space can remain(like a millimeter or less).  Then thin down the ends of the plate so that it will flex a bit when you clamp them down with your small clamps, allowing them to mate up nicely to the belly surface of the bow.

Note-the second pic still needs signifigantly more material removed.  The 3rd and 4th pics are a different bow.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2018, 12:11:18 am by 240m3srt »

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #53 on: March 29, 2018, 11:52:47 pm »
Making the horn plate for the belly side of the handle.  In the 3rd pic this is the rough version which must be thinned substantially more, especially at the ends so it can flex a bit when clamped.  It will end up 1/8" thick or so, and obviously a bit thicker at the middle.  Overlap the ends of the splice a little bit as pictured.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2018, 12:20:06 am by 240m3srt »

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #54 on: March 30, 2018, 12:03:22 am »
So now you've got the belly side of the limb splice worked down and ready to accept the horn plate.  For this step, Tom puts the handle plate on the same way as he spliced the limbs together.  Dip it in the hide glue and then rub the spliced horn belly with glue...again all messy like.  Then use your 3 clamps and repeat what you did before, applying light pressure to just barely squeeze the glue out.  Let it set for a day.  Its freezing outside, so we set ours indoors by the stove, not too close just so its warm.  3 bows side by side, ready for the next step.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2018, 12:18:21 am by 240m3srt »

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #55 on: March 30, 2018, 12:26:18 am »
On my smaller bow one of the tips was a bit off to one side.  We rotated it over a hot stove for a minute or two, then with gloves on, applied pressure by hand to bend it back the appropriate direction just a bit.  On this bow Tom gave me the option to add the small slivers of horn to each side, effectively allowing us to make the strings nocks a bit further out than we could other wise, for slightly longer bow.  If we do in fact go this route we will sinew these little "side slivers" onto the limb.  More to come...

Offline BowEd

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #56 on: April 02, 2018, 02:47:24 pm »
Thanks for sharing your journey on these bows.
BowEd
You got to stand for something or you'll fall for anything.
Ed

Offline GlisGlis

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #57 on: April 04, 2018, 08:55:41 am »
great reading and watching! thankyou  :OK

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #58 on: April 05, 2018, 02:30:23 pm »
We work the handles down being mindful of the splice.  Grip it snugly in a vice, applying the vice clamps from the belly and back.  Later, we flip it width-wise and hold it by the sides of the limb close up near the handle, so that the handle sticks out past the vice and so that you can work on it without too much moving of the rest of the limb.  Furthermore, you can place a block of wood underneath the limb extending outwards so that when pressure is applied downward it helps support it.

We also glue our slivers of horn to the outer 3rd of the limb to thicken it so that the string comes to rest at an area of great thickness.  The outer thirds of our horn bows will not bend.

I mark a circle around any thin areas of the limb so as not to remove any more material there as the rasp slides by.

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #59 on: April 05, 2018, 02:33:53 pm »
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