Leaving osage bark on while drying

[osage outlaw]

This is why I don't trust leaving the osage bark on staves while letting them season.  I've had this happen numerous times.  It seems like it's only certain trees that split like this.  Some trees are fine and won't check at all.  This stave came from a log that was cut and split last February.  So far every stave I've cleaned up from it has had cracks like this on the back.  The staves were stored in my garage.  I'll be able to remove them by going down 3 or 4 rings.  When I've left the bark on summer cut osage it will sometimes release in one big piece allowing the exposed sapwood to check. 

[PEARL DRUMS]

I ruined about 15 staves worth of wood because of that. You know the batch I'm talking about. Most of the time you can go down a few rings and they wont be cracked. My problem was not only top checking, but delam'ed rings on the side to.

[simson]

I also have ruined lots of staves from different woods with bark left on.
Meanwhile I remove bark from every stave, except plum and cherry and some exotics.

[dylanholderman]

that's why i tend to cut wood in the fall/winter if i can choose 

[osage outlaw]

that's why i tend to cut wood in the fall/winter if i can choose 

That's when I try to cut also.  No bug bites and no summer heat.  This was cut in February.  I have found sap flowing in osage trees no matter what time of the year I cut it. 

[Dean Marlow]

That is the biggest problem with this great bow wood. "CHECKING" Back when I used to work on a-lot of Osage staves I tried everything in the book to keep it from checking. I had no perfect way to keep it from happening. Cutting to much at a time was the biggest problem. The best was not to get to many to work on at a time so you can keep an eye on them. Dean

[BowEd]

That same checking is what'll happen here too if I don't remove bark and sapwood to a ring and shellack it.Cutting during the winter is best with cool weather following cutting it to slowly dry it a couple of months at first before the heat gets to it.
When buying staves with the bark on for those not familiar with osage it's good to be aware of that.A lot of work involved if a person does'nt like those cracks.I've had many staves over 30 years old given to me to make a bow for them with the giver thinking he's giving me something very special but I have to remind him they are a heck of a lot more work for a clean back.
A couple of corner post thick 8 to 12 inch trees is enough for me to prepare staves out of at a time.

[Eric Krewson]

I agree with the don't cut too much osage at one time concept.

When you cut too much you split until you pass out from exhaustion, when you come to you can resume pounding away on your wedges.

I cut way too much one time, (a gag picture of course), this wasn't all of it and I did loose about half this wood to checking by leaving the bark on stacking it behind the shed where the sun could hit it at mid day. The staves turned into a pile of warped, badly checked snakes.

[osage outlaw]

I cut a lot at a time.  I split the logs into quarter chunks or more depending on how big the log was.  I stack those in the garage so they stay out of the sun.  I split them down into staves when I can.   I use a 4lb and 3lb hammer.  I can swing those all day without getting wore out. 

[JW_Halverson]

When I first got into making bows the only staves I could get always had bark. And they were always checked in the sapwood and often down into the heartwood. On one occasion, I chased checks until all I had were shavings.  That dealer told me that was the risk in ordering staves, he couldn't make any guarantees. Hundred bucks a stick plus shipping for kindling?  That's when I stopped using 'sage and switched to other woods. Fortunately, I found this community and all the subsequent honest dealers that weren't in it for a fast buck.