Deflex splices

[DC]

When you're doing a deflex splice what do you do about the little empty wedges? Cut and glue in wooden wedges? Fill with epoxy and sawdust? It's going to be covered by the handle/riser anyway, does it matter strength wise? Ideas?

[Del the cat]

Glue a big wedge onto each billet before you cut the splice!
The wedge will also make it easier to guide through the bandsaw too.
You won't any have gaps...
Del

[upstatenybowyer]

Del, any way you could clarify a bit what it means to glue a wedge onto each billet before you cut the splice? Do you mean just glue a piece of wood on top of each billet? I'd love to see how you cut splices on a bandsaw as well. I thought about making a splicing jig like in TBB1, but I can't understand the directions.

Thanks for posting this question DC, I've been wondering about all this for a while now!

[NonBacked]

DC, Good job cutting those splices – they’re TIGHT! Did you do them by hand or use a jig? Did you angle the billets when you cut them to match the deflex angle? (helps to eliminate gaps at the ends of the splices)

You can glue the “wedge” (or a flat piece) on the bottom pieces now, and re-saw. Just be as accurate re-sawing the splices as you were the first time. Another option is the use a filler material as you suggested. The surface area of the splice is plenty strong, so filling the gaps just makes it easier (and neater) to apply the handle covering.
H

[DC]

That was actually after about two hours of rasping and fitting. I did something when I cut it that made it very tight. When I first cut it, it would only go in about 3" on a 4" splice. I made a drawing of a splice to try and figure out what I did but it messes with my head when I try to imagine what goes on when you turn one around.

[vinemaplebows]

Ooops I looked at that pic again , and we are talking the belly not the back.

I personally will add glued on handles to both billets before they are cut to add extra strength to your splice area, twice the gluing depth. Not as pretty but damn strong, cover with a wrap.

VMB

[DC]

Why would it be stronger to glue the wedge on first? It's still the same length and number of joints.

[Badger]

  I usually have my splice area 1" thick before cutting the splice either naturally or built up to 1". Most billets are usually at least 1" thick or more to start with.

[Marc St Louis]

Not the kind of splice I use but I never glue in wedges to fill in the gap, I use a gap filling glue.  I start with at least 1/2" thick wood at the splice but never more than 3/4" thick, this is with a backed bow.  If it's a selfbow then I'll use 1" thick wood and hardly ever less than 3/4" thick at the splice

[Del the cat]

Del, any way you could clarify a bit what it means to glue a wedge onto each billet before you cut the splice? Do you mean just glue a piece of wood on top of each billet? I'd love to see how you cut splices on a bandsaw as well. I thought about making a splicing jig like in TBB1, but I can't understand the directions.

Thanks for posting this question DC, I've been wondering about all this for a while now!

Glue a wedge onto the belly of each billet where the splice will be cut....
hang on... here's a post where I did it on a crossbow prod, very short splices but you'll see the idea.
You will still get the splice points sticking up on the back, these can be flattened out/blended, but the belly side will have no gaps.
https://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2017/06/mkii-prod-etc.html
Del

[upstatenybowyer]

Got it. Thanks Del!

[PEARL DRUMS]

Give me a few hours and Ill put up a  bunch of pics showing how I just did exactly what you are trying to do now.

[upstatenybowyer]

Give me a few hours and Ill put up a  bunch of pics showing how I just did exactly what you are trying to do now.

 

[Marc St Louis]

This is what I put in with gap filling glue

[sleek]

This is a reflexed handle with a scarf joint rather than the w splice, but you can still use this. I put sideplates and a bottom cap to hide the splice. Looks great. Another member here has this bow now.