Ok after some searching I found where I had replied to a similar questions a year or two ago. Im just pasting my response here.
"Well as far as the tanned skin goes. I agree that a air dried skin would be easier and better. But I'm a pore/cheap Bowyer. I've used tanned skins almost every time I put them on a bow. The thing about them are, you have to do a little more work when putting them on. First of all, take some tape or something sticky and remove as much of the "tanned" part on the back that is loose and will come off. That step is important, if you don't, it will peal right off like velcro after its glued to your bow.
Next, before your ready to apply the skins, most people soak them in water. DON'T DO THAT with a tanned skin. I take a damp wrap and wipe down the tanned side while applying a little pressure. This softens the skin a little and finishes removing any loose pieces. Then I let the skin dry.
Next, I take the skin a "flex" it around to make sure that the water didn't make any stiff areas in it. I will sometimes use the tape again just to be certain that all the loose particles are gone.
Now you are ready to figure out your pattern on your bow that you want. You can cut the skin down a bit. But leave it with enough that you have some room for adjustment.
When your ready and you have test fitted your skin. Prep the back of your bow for gluing. I use PatB's method. Wash the back with dawn dish soap and rinse with boiling water. I use tight bond 3 to apply the skin. First apply a thin coat of glue to both the bow and the skin to "size" them. The skin will such up a good bit of the glue. Be sure to get the glue on every part of the surface that you want the skin to be glued to. Do your best not to get glue on the wrong side of the skin.
Once the glue has dried to a very tacky state. Apply a fair layer of glue to both pieces and carefully apply the skin to the back.
Work from the handle to the tip pressing and smoothing out any air bubbles and clumps of glue. Keep doing this till you have a nice smooth application. Then repeat for the other side.
It's a good idea to clean up any excess glue before it starts to set up. Also don't move the skin after it is tacky. This will screw up the adhesion.
I let mine set for about a week in a dry warm location. Then I use the smooth side of my farriers rasp at a downward angle to "file" off and clean up the edges. Always work from the back to the belly at a slight angle. I also use a card scraper to clean up only the glue on the edges of the bow. You will know if the glue is cured, if it scrapes like wood. If not set it up for a few more days. I also us a sanding block to help clean up the edges.
I have never had a tanned skin come loose with this process. One of them on a bow has probably been shot 2000 times. Hope this helps. "
The only thing I could add is when you are cleaning up the edges on a tanned skin sometimes they will be fuzzy and hard to get a crisp edge. Just get them uniformed and apply a little superglue down the edge. Do your best to not get it on the back of the skin. It will darken it. After the superglue is dry, lightly sand the edge. Then apply you finish and let the first coat cure. Then burnish the edge of the skin. And you should be golden! I sometimes use a black marker and just ever so slightly run the edge of the skin. I think it gives it a nice contrast. But thats up to you.
Patrick
