Heat/steam bending sideways: forms, tricks, and tools for fixing tip alignment

[gfugal]

What do you guys do if you want to fix tip alignment? Do you have a secret method or trick? I know you should avoid misaligned tips when shaping out the bow, thus negating any need, but have you done it before? I have but just to a minor degree, it was near impossible and I don't know if I could do it again using that method unless the stars align. The problem is the width is so thick that it doesn't want to bend. It's like trying to recurve a bow that's 1 to 2 inches thick! Wood that thick doesn't bend very easily, and to make matters worse any clamp or weight has to balance on a "knife's edge", so getting any hold is frustrating as heck, and if you're not careful you can induce twist into the limb since it's easier for the wood to twist then bend sideways. The third issue is that it needs to bend across the whole length of the limb, so spot heating isn't going to work very well. What do you do?

[DC]

I bend it in the handle.

[Pat B]

I use blocks and wedges along with a caul, clamps and a heat gun.  A lot depends on where the misalignment is.

[gfugal]

How do you balance the clamps on the side?

[PatM]

Use a block of wood to support the clamp.

[darinputman]

I use my vise and a crude osage form/ spacer to bend mine in the center.  Shown in use on a bamboo back osage using dry heat with unibond 800. Wound up being a bamboo back and bellied osage that held up fine,  handle wood was well over an 1 1/4'' thick at this point.

[jeffp51]

I have two lengths of 2x4 a foot long with a groove in the middle of each just wide enough to fit a limb. They hold the stage above my bench a few inches. I often pad the limbs with a bit of paper towel to protect the back and to keep them from moving.  Wrap the handle with a damp clothe (narrow it down to about an inch wide, so that it is narrower than the fades and more ready to bend. Wrap the damp towel in tin foil and heat with a heat gun. As it warms, gradually apply pressure with a C-section clamp until a little past the desired adjustment. A little movement in the handle makes a big change at the tips. Let it cool for a few hours or overnight before you let off the clamp.  Make sure your limbs can't twist it n their supports

[gfugal]

See this is why this site is so awesome. I might have eventually figured something out, but this cuts the hassle and potentially prevents missed successful bows. Jeff just curious, you said you wrap the handle with a wet cloth then tinfoil before heating it. How far past the handle do you wrap? Just the fades, a couple of inches past the fades or more like a foot past them?

[ohma2]

What jeffp51 said x2

[George Tsoukalas]

Usually, unless it is a recurve, if the string is on the handle I am ok with it.

I always leave the nocks an inch wide to start; that way I can cut the nocks further on 1 side to bring the string towards the center.

The  sideways bend is a tough one but I do it using my vice. I stick some blocks of wood between the stave and the bench.

I don't do any bending with heat until after long string tillering. That way the wood is thin enough to bend.

Jawge

[Jim Davis]

Somebody on this or another forum cut holes in the end of a microwave and heated kinked wood that way. Seems like a great method to heat the inside of the  wood as much as the outside--so long as you don't  have a pace maker.

[vinemaplebows]

Somebody on this or another forum cut holes in the end of a microwave and heated kinked wood that way. Seems like a great method to heat the inside of the  wood as much as the outside--so long as you don't  have a pace maker.

Yep, that's what I use it works great!! 2-3 minutes I'm bending. The holes are front to back.

[jeffp51]

See this is why this site is so awesome. I might have eventually figured something out, but this cuts the hassle and potentially prevents missed successful bows. Jeff just curious, you said you wrap the handle with a wet cloth then tinfoil before heating it. How far past the handle do you wrap? Just the fades, a couple of inches past the fades or more like a foot past them?

Just re-read my post. Auto correct is a horrible thing sometimes. Don't know what a C-section clamp is. Usually I use one width of tin foil, so about 12 inches. With an 8 inch grip that is 2inches past each end, but most of the bend is right in the middle

[Pat B]

Eddie Parker(Mullet) also used a microwave with holes cut in it.

[mullet]

Eddie Parker(Mullet) also used a microwave with holes cut in it.

Yep! learned it from Brian (vinemaplebows), works great. I also have 8' doors framed with 2x4's. I will clamp the bow upright starting in the middle and heat with a heat gun the side profile and start drawing it in with clamps top and bottom till I get the allighnment I want.