Author Topic: rawhide backing  (Read 1760 times)

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Offline jayman448

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rawhide backing
« on: November 28, 2017, 01:16:51 am »
A few nights ago I attempted to do my firet rawhide backing. I finally unwrapped it today to find that there are visible air pockets underneith the rawhide. Is this comkon or have i just created a dud?

Offline Pappy

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Re: rawhide backing
« Reply #1 on: November 28, 2017, 05:47:11 am »
You will need to get the air pockets out, if they are very small you can fill them with needle and glue, if they are large you will need to re hydrate and redo. That is why I hardly ever wrap them anymore and if I do I am very careful to be sure to keep the wrap tight and work out all the air as i am wrapping down the limb. I use TB3 and just keep working it until I am sure it is set and then I might wrap it.  :)
 pappy
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Online Pat B

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Re: rawhide backing
« Reply #2 on: November 28, 2017, 06:55:12 am »
Like Pappy said, you need to get the air and glue pockets out. When I use TB glues I wrap for about an hour to let the glue begin setting up, remove the wrap and work out any air or glue pockets. At this time the glue it still soft enough to get them out. If for some reason they won't work out the sides I will make a small razor cut, length wise to get it out then press it all flat.
 Lately I've used hide glue and haven't had the problem of air or glue pockets and in most cases no need for a wrap.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline DuBois

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Re: rawhide backing
« Reply #3 on: November 28, 2017, 08:23:29 am »
Hey Pat, you use hide glue on hide on wood as well as hide on sinew?
Do you size the back and give the hide a good slathering too? I used TB3 on my rawhide backings but haven't done one in a while. Will try hide glue next time and work it like a snake skin I think.
I guess it doesn't make much difference on water resistance with either glue.

Online Pat B

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Re: rawhide backing
« Reply #4 on: November 28, 2017, 09:12:54 am »
I do size the wood first but generally wash the back and the rawhide(and snake skins) with Dawn dish soap and warm water and rinse with boiling water. This not only cleans the wood oils and hand oils off the wood but also hydrates and breaks the surface tension of the wood so it accepts the glue. (ie. put a drop of water on a freshly sanded back and it will usually bead up(surface tension). After washing, that drop will be drawn in by the wood)I generally give it a couple of sizing coats waiting a few minutes between the two. Then I coat the rawhide(or skin) and the back with glue and lay the backing down. I like to work with 2 pieces of backing, starting at the handle and work out the limb. I like at least part of the backings to overlap at the handle, either by about 1" but mostly the whole handle area.
 Once both pieces of backing are down I make sure that there are no air bubbles or glue pockets. If there are I try to squeeze the out the sides or make a small lengthwise razor cut to get them out. You'll never see the slits after the backing dries and it won't hurt the integrity of the backing going lengthwise.
 Also, hide glue has "suck" which draws the backing to the bow's back as it cures which generally eliminates the use of a wrap but if I feel a wrap is necessary I only leave it of for about an hour. This is enough time for the glue to start curing but you still have iome to make corrections if needed.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC