Glue on tips

[mikekeswick]

Just finished gluing them on. Left the bark on the tip inserts.

I took the clamps off this morning and gave it a floor tiller bend. At this point the tips are about 3.5" long. It's amazing how easy it bends compared to yesterday. Yesterday it felt like I had a lot of work yet to get it to the brace point, with the new tips it feels like it's ready to brace. Leverage is amazing. I'll be shortening them a bit I think

This is a great idea for making more staves useable.
The leverage thing is good It means you are storing more energy during the draw. Keeps your tips light and its thumbs up.

[DC]

Keeps your tips light and its thumbs up.

That's the crux of this whole thing. That "V" joint is right where a guy would want to remove weight and as you reduce the width the "V" joint gets shorter and shorter. I'm thinking I should have started with a deeper "V". I should have made up my mind how wide the finished joint was going to be before I started. Right now it's 1/2" wide and 2 1/2" long. If I reduce it to 3/8" wide it will be 2" long. Iffy I think. I may re-do it. I'll think on it.

[bradsmith2010]

I think if you wrap it you can do it,,

[PatM]

The key is to start your v joint very narrow so that you are not later reducing width and eating away the extremities of the V.

[DC]

Yeah, I wish I'd thought of that first.

[kbear]

Korey- I made my "V" joints 2 1/2-3" long by 1/2" wide. I only need a couple of inches on each end. I want to make the tip as short as possible so that the splice is not in the working portion. There would be no working limb outside the splice. I didn't bind my joints. It's fairly easy to get a good joint with a "V" joint. I used West Systems epoxy.

Straight tips will gain you more length than recurves with less stress.

Thanks Pat, that helps

I think I would bind mine anyways. I use all natural materials on my bows. Glues ,strings and finishes included. I use gelatine glue for just about everything.

By putting longer tips on and thinning them right down, the extra leverage would offset the extra mass of the binding a little...... in theory?

[mikekeswick]

Don't worry about the v - splice if it is well done it won't be a problem. Longer splice = less working limb so you will just end up chasing your tail. Width isn't a problem if you have the thickness to keep it stiffish.

[DC]

By putting longer tips on and thinning them right down, the extra leverage would offset the extra mass of the binding a little...... in theory?

I've thought long and hard about this( I just can't help it PD). Leverage is a double edged sword. You may get extra  speed with more leverage but you lose power. If you lose power(draw weight) you lose arrow speed. You could maintain draw weight as you increase limb length by gluing a veneer on the belly but that would increase the limb weight and cost you speed again. This is one of those cases of when you do something you gain a little and lose a little at the same time. Unless you have hard data of the gains and losses you really don't know where you end up. I'm thinking it boils down to a strain/limb weight thing. The more you can strain the lightest limb, the faster your arrow will be. Also since this is a "system" you have to include the arrow weight in all your figuring.
In all I don't think it's something that can be sorted in your recliner

[Pat B]

I've never even thought about adding tips to a bow stave. I guess I've been lucky to have had plenty of bow staves. I've only done a few spliced billets.

[DC]

When I first started the idea of GLUING a bow together scared the crap out of me. My inner cheapness finally got the better of me and rather than throw out good Yew I tried splicing. It worked and after a bit I could bring them to full draw without cowering. Next I was trying to put big recurves on an OS bow. I just couldn't bend them without breaking them so I glued some on. So here I am. Making short staves a little longer. I don't think I want to sneak them out more than an inch or so though.