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drying conifer woods for arrow shafts

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willie:
Marc,
I should have been more specific about what I am calling "relative stiffness". It is  MOE/S.G.
Haven't seen ramin in years, though it would be worth testing if you have some (and a spine tester), I could do the calcs.

willie:
the samples in my warm box are about as stabilized as they are going to get. here are some values from my testing.
In addition to the heavier woods mentioned by Mark, lighter woods like spruce can be stiff for its weight, as well as some heavier pine. Stiffness and density vary quite a bit between samples, so I think it would be hard to categorize "relative stiffness"  by species alone

Jim Davis:
As the above chart indicates (I think), white spruce is a pale shadow of Sitka. Tests of black and red spruce put it right up there with Sitka in stiffness and weight considerations. It's hard to get black or red spruce and know that's what it is, because suppliers just lump white, black and red in the same batches.

I just milled out a couple dozen from what I know was black spruce (because I cut it myself 10 or 15 years ago.) It  made up the best shafts I have ever had. Haven't put them on the tester, but it is obvious that these 5/16 shafts are stiffer than my 11/32 white spruce.

I may be traveling to Maine and N.H. this summer, and if I do, I expect to come back with some more black spruce.

Badger:
  I was surprised at how badly Doug fir tested, was that fine ringed doug fir? I was also disappointed with the Larch.

Marc St Louis:
I have easy access to Black Spruce, have quite a few trees growing on my property.  I made arrows out of the wood many years ago and it is quite stiff but you don't want to bend the shafts too much or they will explode

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