Main Discussion Area > Flight Bows
About arrow points - necessity or useless?
JNystrom:
Well, that center of pressure was a new thing! Of course everyone has experimented it somehow, but it's good to have right definition for it. So do you have a way to calculate the cp while making arrows, avcase? The string method in the end of the Willie's article should work, but if you say it changes with speed....
Like in many things, testing works, for you too, Selfbowman!
About the arrow points, avcase, how do you shaft those small bone/antler/horn points? I have seen the wedge style, but I have found it hard to do. Maybe i just need some practice.
Del the cat:
There is a trade off with fletching size vs balance point. I've seen some crazy arrow flight with small fletchings and balance point about 1/8" FOC (not one of my arrows) but it went about 40 yards, turned hard right and nose dived, then, just before it hit the ground it climbed and resumed a normal flight, eventually landing about 40 yards right of the initial line !.... scary :o
Mind most of my flight arrows have been for warbows, and I've turned small brass points to give a bit of weight. Tricky arrows, cos a warbow is fairly wide at the grip (approx 40mm)
Warbows aren't very well suited to flight shooting with V light arrows... mind I'm willing to hear any suggestions :)
Everyone knows a bullet point is better, for bullets... but is that really true at the velocities we are talking about? And at what scale is a bullet point a bullet point? E.G, With gradual taper as in barrelled arrow, how thin do you go before rounding it off to a bullet point...?
It's hard to determine the critical factors, and obviously that's why people build shooting machines. Unfortunately I've lost the test ground near me >:(
Del
JNystrom:
While back I hit 279 yards with lilac shortie 49", ~75# @19 with 4" brace height and 40mm wide handle. So its doable, you just need to have the arrow bend past the handle! Hah..
My yard calculations were wrong in the opening post, i hit 280 yards with the 43 pound rowan. Problems with yards, problems with inches!
The point-thickness variable is shady as you said, i have shot equally decent distances with almost blunt heads and sharp heads.
Turks had 3mm at the base of pile.
Marc St Louis:
--- Quote from: Del the cat on September 07, 2017, 05:09:20 am ---There is a trade off with fletching size vs balance point. I've seen some crazy arrow flight with small fletchings and balance point about 1/8" FOC (not one of my arrows) but it went about 40 yards, turned hard right and nose dived, then, just before it hit the ground it climbed and resumed a normal flight, eventually landing about 40 yards right of the initial line !.... scary :o
Mind most of my flight arrows have been for warbows, and I've turned small brass points to give a bit of weight. Tricky arrows, cos a warbow is fairly wide at the grip (approx 40mm)
Warbows aren't very well suited to flight shooting with V light arrows... mind I'm willing to hear any suggestions :)
Everyone knows a bullet point is better, for bullets... but is that really true at the velocities we are talking about? And at what scale is a bullet point a bullet point? E.G, With gradual taper as in barrelled arrow, how thin do you go before rounding it off to a bullet point...?
It's hard to determine the critical factors, and obviously that's why people build shooting machines. Unfortunately I've lost the test ground near me >:(
Del
--- End quote ---
Many years ago when I had more interest in flightbows I had the idea of buying some 22 caliber spire point bullets and melting the lead out of the copper jacket then using the empty jacket for points
avcase:
Another reason I put a point on my "Primitive" arrows is that I build a lot of split-cane arrows and self-bamboo arrows, and it requires some kind of point to finish it off. For the split-cane and self bamboo arrows, the point has a tang that is inserted into a hole at the end of the arrow shaft. For solid wood arrows, I've drilled the end of the shaft to accept a tang, or created a conical shape on the end of the arrow shaft that matches an inverted conical shape drilled into the point. I leave a slight shoulder on the point and smooth out the transition to the arrow shaft with hide glue that I sand down. This is followed by a few coats of shellac, which is polished smooth, and a final polish of carnuba wax.
Alan
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